77*67 
ffl 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 972 565 7 



, TT 267 
.H8 
1917 
Copy 1 



BRAZING AND 
SOLDERING 



BY JAMES F. HOBART 



5 



BEING 
NUMBER 



OF A 
SERIES OF 



PRACTICAL 
PAPERS 

SIXTH EDITION 
Revised and Enlarged 



ck. 



''*'■ 



The Norman W. Henley Publishing Co. 
132 Nassau Street, New York 

1917 



' rro(f) 



rr-i _i 






TV 



Brazing and 
Soldering 



BY JAMES F. HOBART 
T T T 



\"^ ' B 



razinj 



Soldering and brazing are terms often used to de- 
note the same operation, that of joining similar or dis- 
similar metals by means of molten metal which may be 
of the same kind, but which usually has a lower melting 
point than the metals to be joined. The term "brazing" 
is usually employed to denote the soldering with an alloy 
of copper or zinc. "Soldering" is usually taken to repre- 
sent the joining of surfaces by means of an alloy of lead 
and tin, and "hard-soldering" is understood to mean the 
process of uniting as above described with silver and its 
alloys used as a uniting metal. Hard soldering and braz- 
ing are practically the same, and are both done in about 
the same way. 

The theory of brazing is the melting of a low fusing 
metal against the metals to be united while they are in 
such a condition of cleanliness and temperature that the 
metal welds itself to them. Soft brass, when melted, will 
weld itself to iron, copper, and a number of other metals, 
while the temperature of the metals in question is at a con- 
siderable number of degrees below their several melting 
points. In fact, only heat enough need be employed to 
fairly melt the uniting metal and to render it fluid enough 
to flow, or to "run," as the mechanic aptly states it. 

To braze, also to solder, it is absolutely necessary that 
the surfaces to be united are clean and free from oxide. 



i 



Copyright 1906, The Derry-Collard Co. 

Copyright 1917 and 1912, The Norman W. Henley Publishing Co. 






Brazing. 

The term "clean" is used in brazing and soldering, to 
mean that there is no "matter in the wrong place" as far 
as the surfaces to be operated upon are concerned. If the 
surfaces should be covered with a mixture of plumbago 
and soap, it is pretty sure that the brass would not adhere, 
and they could be called "dirty." If, on the contrary, the 
surfaces were daubed with grease, resin, lime, borax or 
similar substances, the brazing will not be interfered with ; 
hence, it is better to say that surfaces to be brazed or 
soldered, should be made bright and free from oxide, 
finger marks, and all other matter except the proper flux 
to prevent oxidization of the surfaces when heated. This, 
and this alone, is the purpose of all the fluxes used either 
in soldering, brazing or welding. The flux prevents ox- 
idization from contact of the hot metal with the air, or 
with the gases from the fuel used in heating. 

Aside from the proper cleaning and fluxing of metals 
to be brazed or soldered, it is necessary that they be fitted 
together as closely as possible. It may seem like a par- 
adox, but is the truth never the less, that when surfaces 
are united by brazing, the union is stronger the less brass 
there is between the surfaces. That is : The closer the fit- 
ting of the parts, the stronger will the braze be after com- 
pletion. It is unnecessary to "leave space for the brass," 
in fitting for a brazed joint. The penetrating power of 
melted brass may be demonstrated by drilling a hole in a 
piece of iron or steel. Drive a plug in the drilled hole, and 
force it in as tightly as possible, then rivet the ends of the 
plug and proceed to braze around one end of it, when it 
will be found upon test, that no matter how tightly the 
plug may have been driven in, the melted brass has found 
its way through the plate beside and around the riveted 
plug, and that it has brazed both ends of the plug and its 



Brazing. 

entire length as well. Therefore, fit tight, for brazing, 
and trust the liquid brass to find its way through the 
entire joint without fail. 

Borax is the flux usually employed for all kinds of 
brazing. For commercial work on a large scale, boracic 
acid is used as it is cheaper than borax, being purchased 
in a granular form, in bulk, by the keg or barrel. For 
the uniting metal, some alloy of copper and zinc is uni- 
versally employed. When other substances, such as silver 
is used, the operation becomes known as "hard soldering," 
as described elsewhere. 

The particular alloy used for brazing, is called "spel- 
ter," and consists of equal parts of copper and zinc. For 
different operations it is necessary to use either a harder 
or softer alloy, hence the proportions of metals vary in the 
alloy according to the following table : 



Brazing Alloys. 


Tin. 


Copper. 


Zinc. 


Antimony 


Hardest, 
Hard (spelter) 
Soft, 
Softest, 


o 
o 
I 

2 


3 
i 

4 
o 


I 
i 

3 
o 


o 
o 
o 
I 



In a number of dictionaries, the proper metal for 
brazing is given as "Fine Brass, one part ; Zinc, one part." 
This means that the copper in the brass receives another 
portion of zinc, thus making the alloy softer and lowering 
the melting point. 

In commercial brazing, it is frequently profitable to 
mix the spelter with the proper proportion of boracic acid 
as found by experiment to be necessary. Then, the mix- 
ture is placed over or upon the parts to be brazed, and 
subjected to heat sufficient to melt the brass. As soon as 
the brass is seen to flow, "run," the workman calls it, the 



Brazing. 

article is removed from the fire and the surface — if it will 
allow — is rubbed or scraped with a piece of metal or with 
a scratch brush to remove the flux and a portion of the 
superfluous brass. In many cases the scraping can not be 
permitted owing to the nature of the work, but whenever 
possible, it should be done as the flux comes off much 
easier when hot than after it gets cold. 

The manner of applying the spelter and borax also 
differs with the work to be done. When a plain ring is to 
be brazed, it is sufficient to hang the ring on the end of a 
wire or a rod of iron and place a bit of spelter and borax 
inside the ring which has been placed so that the part 
to be brazed is downward. Usually the spelter and borax 
can be deposited in some angle of the work, or, upon 
some flat surface which will keep it in place during the 
heating operation. Sometimes, however, this is impos- 
sible, as in brazing a wire. In such cases, select a bit of 
spelter which is long enough to bend up U-shaped so it 
could be hung over the wire. The borax can readily be 
made to adhere by warming the wire. 

It is best to heat rather slowly, in order that the joint 
may be brought to a dull red heat without burning any 
portion, or without any part remaining too cold. When 
the heat is forced so that one portion of the metal is hot 
enough to melt the spelter that happens to be on it, while 
another part of the joint is below the melting part of 
spelter, there is little possibility of securing a perfect 
joint. Heating evenly is absolutely necessary. It must 
be insisted upon or there will be no good work done in 
brazing. 

Brazing can be done with any source of heat which 
will melt the spelter, but a properly arranged gas flame 
is the best that can be provided. The writer has more 



Brazing. 

than once done work in an excellent manner in a pile of 
coals in an open fireplace with the hand-bellows as a 
source of air pressure. Indeed, upon one occasion, in a 
hunter's camp, a hatchet, split through the poll to the 
very eye, was successfully brazed with a bit of soft brass 
wire used for snaring fish. The flux was a bit of borax 
from the medicine chest, and the brass melting fire was a 
kettle full of coals set just inside the camp door and 
banked with wet clay to approximate a smith's forge. The 
necessary blast was supplied by a cone of birch bark, the 
large end of which was daubed with clay tightly into a 
hole in the wall of the camp. The small end of the cone 
led into a little clay passage which conducted the wind 
pressure into the bed of coals. No better working outfit 
could be desired for the limited work to be done. 

When a smith's forge is to be used for brazing, use 
a charcoal fire, if possible. If bituminous coal must be 
used, coke enough of it to do the work, as the sulphur in 
the soft coal is not conducive to good brazing any more 
than it is to good welding, although a fair job of brazing 
may be done in an ordinary green coal fire by letting the 
coal remain without stirring while the brazing is being 
done. 

If the work permits of being readily handled, make a 
sort of pit or crater in the pile of coal on the forge, and 
blow a few minutes until all the visible smoke and gas has 
ceased. Then lower the work carefully into the crater 
and blow very lightly, taking care that the spelter is in 
place and that it is not crowded away by the melting of the 
borax. Heat slowly and evenly, allowing the fire to lie 
without blast for short intervals. This permits the work 
to "soak" in the heat, as it is called by the workmen, re- 
sulting in very even heating of the work. 

5 



Brazing. 

The workman should have at hand a small pointed 
rod or wire, with which to poke into place any bit of 
spelter which may shift its position and at the instant of 
melting, the spelter may be made to flow quickly and in 
the direction desired, by pressing the bits of spelter, one 
at a time, against the hot surface of the work. A row or 
group of spelter granules seem a good deal like sheep. 
Let one start to run, and all the others quickly follow. A 
bit of spelter forced against the hot metal receives its heat 
much quicker than when lying loose, and, as soon as one 
particle melts, it flows around the others, permitting them 
to receive heat and melt very quickly, hence the seeming 
following in the leadership of the first granule to melt. 
The work can be brazed at a considerable lower heat if a 
little care is taken to start the spelter a-flowing, as above 
noted. 

In brazing in the smith's forge, it is well to hold the 
work "high up," that is, do not let it rest on the coal, but 
keep it suspended between the banks of incandescent fuel 
so that heat must reach all parts by radiation instead of a 
part by convection, as would be the case were the work 
to rest directly against the hot coals. When large work is 
to be handled, of course the above will not apply, and 
direct contact with the coal of the part to be brazed must 
be prevented by the work being supported at other places, 
leaving the working portion free and clear. 

When considerable brazing is to be done, build a 
special furnace for that work alone, and, if possible, do 
the heating with gas. A blast of air will be necessary but 
a very small blower, similar to that used for a portable 
forge, will do all that is required. The diagram contained 
in Fig. i, shows plainly the construction of a small home- 
made furnace for brazing. This furnace may be built up 



<°$ 



Brazing. 



Brick Wall 



Fire Proof Brick 



Iron 
Plate 



Wooden Bench 



Gas 



^3? 



Brick Wall 



Gas 



n 



Ail- 



Brick Wa I 



a#Ct 



Air 



D 



w 



r/iej>er/y- Co //a 7 a. Co, #,/ 

Fig. i. Home made brazing furnace. 



a 



Brazing. 

on a bench with loose bricks, or it may be constructed in a 
more permanent manner, using an iron shell with fire brick 
lining instead of loose bricks. 

For bench use, there is an insulating layer of bricks 
laid upon the wood, then an iron plate and then the brick 
walls of the furnace are laid up. It is only necessary that 
the bricks are sufficient to hold the flame around the work 
to be brazed. There is a radiation or reflection of heat 
from a hot incandescent surface of brick or other material, 
like charcoal or carbon, which greatly aids in heating the 
object to be brazed. In fact, it is often impossible to 
braze certain work with the furnace at hand, until some- 
thing has been placed around the work to keep the heat 
where it is needed — hence the use of the confined space in 
a brazing furnace, instead of letting the flame play directly 
against the work, in the open. 

In Fig. i, the arrangement of the gas and air pipes is 
shown. It is necessary that the air should be delivered 
inside of the jet of gas, as the air thus supplied inside the 
gas, together with the supply of air outside the jet, enables 
a much better and hotter flame to be maintained than 
when the air is delivered wholly around the gas instead of 
inside it. In the sketch, the two jets are shown con- 
trolled by a single valve, each for the air and the gas. 
Should there be trouble in obtaining the best results 
with either burner, it can be cured by putting a valve in 
each of the four pipes leading to the burners. Then it 
will be possible to adjust separately, the gas and air supply 
to each burner. 

The entire piping may be made up of standard fit- 
tings, as shown by Fig. i, or special castings and forgings 
may be provided, as desired. The size of the furnace may 
be made sufficient to take in the usual work to be brazed, 

8 



Brazing. 

bearing in mind that the smaller the furnace, the less gas 
will be required, and the more limited the work that can 
be done. On the other hand, while the large furnace 
costs more than the small one, and more piping and more 
gas is required to properly heat the apparatus, there is 
always the possibility of filling the large furnace with 
bricks to fit it to small work and the gas can always be 
cut down to fit the furnace by means of the valves pro- 
vided for that purpose. It is in order, then, to provide as 
large a furnace as there is likelihood of there being work 
for, then fill up the fire-pot with fire bricks until economy 
of gas is secured for the particular work to be done. Then, 
when a large piece of work comes along, take out the 
bricks, and a large furnace is at hand. The above re- 
marks, of course, apply to job and repair work. For 
special manufacturing where the same work is to be done 
day after day, there will, of course, be provided special 
brazing furnaces, fitted for the particular work in hand. 

Cleaning work which is to be brazed, is a most im- 
portant part of the operation. Usually, filing, scraping or 
grinding must be resorted to. Cleaning by means of acid 
is sometimes attempted, but this method sometimes proves 
very far from being satisfactory. If the surfaces are not 
thoroughly cleaned of grease by the use of strong alkali, 
the acid will fail to make the entire surface bright, and a 
poor braze will be the result. Again, if the acid be not 
entirely removed at the time of cleaning the surfaces, then 
there will be more trouble, for the acid remaining on the 
metal will proceed to unite with it into a film of oxide 
which will not only prevent a perfect braze, but which will 
probably cause an apparently perfect union to fall apart as 
the acid left in the metal gets in its work of undermining 
the layer of brass which has been put upon the work dur- 



Brazing. 

ing the operation. Thus : Free acicl causes the joint to 
"rust out" — something which is fatal to good or lasting 
work. 

The apparatus described above is applicable for braz- 








X- 



7/>* der/y Co//arU Co, A'/. 
Fig. 2 Gasoline torch. 



ing heavy work. For light brazing, a simple gasoline 
torch may be used, as shown by Fig. 2. This appliance 
gives a very strong flame, but if it be directed upon a piece 
of iron for an entire day, there would not be sufficient heat 
to make much of a piece of iron red-hot, to say nothing of 
melting the spelter. However, there is heat enough de- 



10 



Brazing. 

veloped in the gasoline flame to make a considerable braze. 
All that is necessary, is to put the heat just where it is 
needed, and to hold it there. This is best done by build- 
ing around the work with charcoal which becomes incan- 
descent from the heat of the gasoline flame, and also sets 
up a heating scheme from its own combustion. 

If the article to be brazed, be a very small one, it can 
be placed bodily in a hole scooped in a bit of charcoal, as 




Fig. 3. Braz.ing in charcoal block. 

shown by Fig. 3. Here is shown the brazing of a link in 
a small chain. The broken link is carefully wedged into 
the hole in the charcoal, and bits of coal may be packed 
around the link if the latter be comparatively large. The 
place where the link is to be brazed, is indicated at a, and 
the heat is applied from the torch b, which, of course, is 
applied at the most convenient angle. 

Another very convenient method of applying char- 
coal in the brazing operation, is shown by Fig. 4. Here, 
the work is held between two pieces of hard charcoal 



Brazing. 

which are clamped firmly upon the work. If the coal is 
in the way at first, the flame from the torch will quickly 
burn away the interfering parts. Two or more pieces of 
metal can be held firmly for brazing by this method, and 
the charcoal is also brought very close to the point of 
heating. 




Fig. 4. Another way of using charcoal. 



A very excellent device for brazing in a shop where 
there is considerable work, but no gas to do it with, con- 
sists of a pair of torch burners attached to a compressed 
air reservoir of considerable size, as indicated by Fig. 5. 
The action of this tool is the same as for the torch ; it is 
pumped up after some gasoline has been put into the air- 
t?.nk, then the burners are heated and ignited in the usual 
way, the necessary air pressure being pumped up in the 
tank by means of an ordinary bicycle pump — if no better 
way be rigged in the shop. 

Pieces of fire brick, laid on either side of the path of 

12 



Brazing. 

the flames will confine them a great deal and if pieces of 
charcoal be placed inside of the bricks, a very high degree 
of heat can be obtained. Each torch-head is so arranged 
that it can be swivelled in any direction. If both torches 
be turned so they point nearly in the same direction, the 





Fig. s. A good brazing device. 



flame from the two torches will form a sort of V, and at 
the point where the flames come together, is a very hot 
place. With a backing of fire brick and charcoal as above 
described, iron may almost be melted with this appliance. 
Blow-pipe brazing is done in exactly the same man- 



13 



Brazing. 

tier as described for blow-torch work, only, as large work 
cannot be attempted as with the torch, simply for the 
reason that there is not as much heat developed with the 
small blow-pipe, as with the larger blow-torch. The in- 
tensity of the flame, however, is as great, and even much 
greater with the little blow-pipe than with the largest torch 
ever made. 

There is an excellent tool for soldering and small 
brazing, which consists of two tubes, one for illuminating 
or hydrogen gas, the other tube for compressed air. These 
tubes are attached to flexible rubber tubes as shown by 
Fig. 6, one leading to the gas fixture, the other to a source 




r/iefieny Cc/te/ctC'o A//. 



Fig. 6. A handy blow pipe. 



of compressed air. On small work the air-tube is often 
held in the mouth and the air supplied by the operator. 
This blow-pipe may be attached to, and used in connection 
with the apparatus shown by Fig. 5. For work larger 
than the double blow-torch can handle, the air-gas blow- 
pipe will be found a very welcome addition to the source 
of heat. 

Fig. 7 illustrates two types of blow-pipes ordinarily 
used. The ball on one of them, is hollow, and is supposed 
to render the flame a little hotter by catching the moisture 

14 



Brazing. 

that may be imparted to the air by being blown through 
the lungs and mouth. The chief benefit to be derived 
from the ball, is in catching whatever portions of saliva 
are blown into the tube with the air. The plain blow- 
pipe dispenses with the moisture catching device, and 
some of the best work is done with this kind of a blow- 
pipe. 

Fig. 8 shows the manner of blow-pipe application to 
a small job of brazing. The work is held in a pair of 




Fig. 7. Two small blow pipes. 



tongs or pliers, between pieces of hard charcoal, and the 
flame of the alcohol lamp is diverged as shown, by the 
stream of air from the blow-pipe nozzle. For small braz- 
ing jobs, also for hard soldering, and for many kinds of 
soft-soldering, this apparatus is of inestimable value to the 
mechanic. The lamp is made with a spherical alcohol 
reservoir, which forms the body of the lamp, and it swings 
in any direction, in the metal base of the lamp. The flame 
may, therefore, be put in any position within the capacity 
of the lamp. 

15 



Brazing. 

There has recently developed two new methods of 
brazing, which for manufacturing purposes, throw in the 
shade, all methods known before the advent of the two 
methods in question, one of which is known as ''Brazing 
by Immersion," and consists of dipping the article to 




Fig. 8. How small blow pipe 
is used 



be brazed, into a bath of melted spelter, on top of which 
is maintained a body of molten flux, through which the 
articles to be brazed have first to be passed. Fig. 9 shows 
one form of crucible or melting pot used to contain the 
fluid flux and spelter. Common round crucibles are also 
used, the only necessity being that the containing vessel 
must be large enough, and the melted metal high enough 

16 



Brazing. 

to allow of the parts to be brazed being immersed suf- 
ficiently to bring them entirely beneath the surface of the 
hot spelter. When the pot shown by Fig. 9 is used, large 
work is to be handled, therefore provision is made for a 
considerable body of molten metal, hence the long, flat 
pot, into which can be dipped almost any portion of an 
object which is not absolutely flat and longer than the pot. 
The position of the work in the pot is pretty well 
shown by Fig. 10. The pot is shown" upon a bed of coals, 
but it would be better if it were heated by a gas furnace. 




Fig. 9. Special crucible for immersion. 



On top of the metal is the body of flux, a, in a molten 
state. The body of spelter, b, underneath the flux is also 
kept in a melted state, and when the object to be brazed 
is first introduced, it is held in the hot flux for a short 
time before it is put down into the spelter. The object 
of holding the work a while in the flux is two-fold. Not 
only is the object heated, but it is coated with a layer of 
flux which prevents oxidation. When thoroughly heated 
and coated with flux, the work is passed down into the 
spelter, which immediately attaches itself to the work, 

17 



Brazing. 

coating every part thereof and insinuating itself into 
every crack and corner. Between surfaces, capillary at- 
traction fills all the space' and makes a solid filling after 
the work has cooled. 

In this kind of brazing, parts of the work which must 
not be adhered to by the spelter, are covered with graphite 
specially prepared for the purpose in such a manner that 
the brass will never adhere where the "anti-flux" graphite 
has been applied. This substance is made up into a paste 




Air 

Fig. 10. Using a round crucible. 



and applied with a brush to parts which must not be 
covered by the spelter. The graphite is not affected by 
the intense heat of the spelter, and if care is used in paint- 
ing on the graphite, little or no filing will be necessary 
after the brazing operation has been finished. 

The proper flux to use with one of these furnaces, is 
pretty hard to determine. Some operators use pure borax, 
and keep it from three-eighths of an inch, to over two 

18 



Brazing. 

inches deep on top of the spelter, while other people who 
do excellent brazing, use three parts boracic acid and one 
part borax, while others use exactly the opposite propor- 
tion of borax and acid. Other people use boracic acid 
straight, without anything else with it. Again, some use 
soda mixed with borax, and, in fact, almost any com- 
pound which has borax in it, seems to work well as a flux 
in the dipping process of brazing. 

The other method of brazing, alluded to above, as 
being a great advance in the process of brazing, is known 
as the "Pich Process of Brazing Cast Iron." Cast iron 
can be brazed by the methods described above, but it is 
very delicate business, as the iron melts, or at least softens 
so it will break under the least strain, at a temperature 
pretty near that at which the spelter melts, so that it is 
almost impossible to melt the brass without "burning" up 
the cast iron which is being brazed. 

By the Pich method, the surfaces to be brazed are 
first brushed over with a varnish made of oxide of copper 
mixed with any liquid which will allow of the copper being 
spread with a brush, and which will afterwards hold the 
oxide when dry. 

After this application, the brazing is carried out the 
same as in the ordinary method. The brass or spelter 
is placed in position, and the flux applied, then a gas-air 
flame is applied as in ordinary brazing. It is assumed 
that the metallic oxide acts as a reducer on the surface of 
the cast iron to be brazed. Without the oxide, the carbon 
above noted acts much like the graphite used in the 
dipping method of brazing as an anti-flux as described in 
the description of the dipping process of brazing. It is 
claimed that the metallic oxide is reduced, removing dur- 
ing the process of reduction, the carbon on the surface of 

19 



Soldering. 

the metal, and, it is claimed, often penetrating for a 
distance of three or four inches into the metal itself, 
thereby making the cast iron stronger at and near the 
joint, than it was before. Of this matter, the writer has 
no personal knowledge. The process has been described 
very fully in a paper by Wilifred Lewis, read before the 
American Society of Mechanical Engineers. 

It is claimed that both the joint and the casting 
itself is made from 5% to 10% stronger by the treatment 
with oxide. This, if correct, is a pointer of value to the 
iron worker, aside from in the process of brazing, for, if 
in certain cases, cast iron can have its strength increased 
10%, it will be of inestimable value to the designing 
engineer to know thereof. 

Soldering. 

Soldering is much like brazing in some of its details. 
In fact, some kinds of soldering are done exactly like some 
kinds of brazing, but other varieties of soldering are 
totally unlike any brazing operations. Soldering, there- 
fore, may be taken to mean the uniting of two or more 
pieces of metal, with fusible alloys of lead and tin. Some- 
times, lead areas are united by melting their surfaces 
without the use of solder, the surfaces being fluxed. This 
form of soldering differs slightly from welding, and is 
called "burning" by the trade. The method is usually em- 
ployed in uniting the edges of sheets of lead used in the 
lining of acid tanks or similar apparatus. 

The particular kind of soldering usually employed 
is by the use of the so-called "soldering iron," which is 
really a copper bit placed on the end of an iron handle. 

20 



$ Soldering. 

An alloy of lead and tin is used which readily adheres 
to the surface of the bit, which must be clean, free from 
oxide, etc. The operation of coating a copper bit with 
solder is known as "tinning," and will be described else- 
where. The theory of soft soldering is: that as the soft 
metal adheres to, and unites with the surface of the copper 
bit, so will the soft metal, under certain conditions, ad- 





5* 



*3E3 




/'he Deny- Co/Zard Co JVV 
Figs, ii and 12. Forms of soldering "irons." 



here to, and unite with the surface of the metals to be 
soldered. In fact, soft soldering, as well as brazing, con- 
sists of welding together two or more pieces of similar 
or dissimilar metals by means of another metal of lower 
melting point. That constitutes soldering ; all the rest of 
the operation, is detail, which may be varied' to suit con- 
ditions. 

The form of copper bit usually employed, is shown by 



Soldering. 

Fig. II, herewith. There are also many other shapes in 
common use, and those represented by a, b, c and d, in 
Fig. ii, are frequently seen. In the latter illustration, a 
is the "hatchet" bit, used perhaps more frequently than 
any of the others, except that shown by Fig. II, which 
is the tool with which nearly all jobbing and repairing 
is done. The "hatchet" form of bit is also shown by b, 
Fig. 12, and differs only that the handle is swivelled so 
that the edge of the bit may be turned in any direction 
as made necessary by the work in hand. This tool is used 
for long, straight seams, and for heavy work generally. 
The bit shown at c, is one of the many shapes used for 
special work. Tools of any shape can be easily made by 
the workman who simply forges the copper when cold, to 
the size and shape desired. Copper forges on the anvil 
pretty well and if the precaution be taken to anneal the 
bit frequently, almost any desired shape can be made with 
little if any filing or cutting — simply by. forging alone. 
The annealing operation for copper, consists of heating to 
a dull red heat, and then quenching in water — the reverse 
of the steel hardening operation. 

The shape shown by C, is a very useful tool where 
soldering has to be done in corners or small places. It is 
of the same shape as form A, except that it is smaller, and 
round in section, instead of "hex." The handle is screwed 
into the bit, and three holes are drilled and tapped so that 
the handle can be put in as shown, or with the flat end 
either "hatchet," or "cross," as the work to be done may 
demand. The swivel hatchet bit, B, is one of the most 
useful tools. It ranks next to form A. Fitted with the 
two tools, Fig. ii, and B, Fig. 12, all kinds of large 
work can be done. With the addition of C, the stock is 
complete. 



Soldering. 

Even more important than the shape of the bits, is 
their condition. A man can do good work with any 
"plug" of a tool, as long as it is cleaned and well tinned. 
It is in this, that the life of the tool lies. With a poorly 
tinned tool, it is impossible to do good soldering. It is 
then, of the greatest importance that the user of soldering 
tools knows how to put them in shape and how to keep 
them there. To begin with, a bit can never remain in 




Fig. 13, Brick "jig" for tinning copper. 



good condition if it is over-heated. Once a bit is made 
red-hot, its usefulness is gone until it has been re-tinned. 
Heating in a soft coal fire also causes the tinning to vanish 
very quickly. 

In order to learn how best to keep a bit well tinned, 
it is necessary to learn how to tin the bit the first time. 
Renewing the tinning is practically the same as the first 
tinning. To tin a copper, see that it is of the shape re- 
quired, then brighten the sides and edges of the point 

23 



Soldering. 

with a file. Heat the bit until it is barely hot enough to 
melt a little metal off a stick of solder when pressed 
against a bar of that alloy. If the bit is too hot, the tin 
cannot be made to adhere to it. Cool the bit on a wet 
rag, if it should be heated too hot, but, the sooner the 
beginner learns to "never let the coppers get too hot," the 
sooner he will be an expert at soldering. 

Perhaps the best "jig" for tinning coppers, is a brick 
with the top cut out with a cold chisel, something as 
shown by Fig. 13. The softer the brick, the better "jig" 
it will make. A very hard burned brick will not let the 
copper rub off little bits, while a soft, pale yellow brick 




Fig. 14. A handy scraper. 

rubs off like sand and the material thus removed, unites 
with the resin used in the operation, and helps to brighten 
the surface of the copper. 

The cavity in the top surface of the brick may be 
made about an eighth of an inch deep, and some resin 
melted into it. Some pieces of salammoniac, scattered in 
with the resin, improves the working of the "jig" im- 
mensely. In fact, that substance is the natural flux for 
copper, and that metal may be soldered with no other 
flux except a little of the muriate of ammonia as the 
chemical in question is technically known. Some solder 
is melted into the cavity on top of the brick, and there 
mingles with the other material. The heated copper 

24 



Soldering. 

should be rubbed back and forth on the brick, amid the 
melted solder and flux. The particles of brick serve to 
brighten the copper so that the solder readily adheres, 
covering the entire point of the bit, as far back as it may 
have been brightened, or rubbed against the surface of 
the brick. 

In using the copper give it a rub or two on the brick 
just before replacing to heat, and the copper will always 
keep well tinned. If, at any time, through over-heating 
or soldering dirty surfaces, the tinning begins to disap- 
pear, a few rubs on the brick will replace the tinning as 
good as new. When several coppers are in use, they are 
usually tinned by rubbing two bits together, taking one 
with either hand, and rubbing them together on the brick. 
Then, the brick brightens the coppers and the rubbing 
of the two together, causes the molten metal to adhere 
very quickly. Coppers may be tinned in many other ways. 
Simply rubbing the bit on the ground, or on the floor of 
the shop will brighten the metal, and the tinning may be 
proceeded with on a bit of tin, with nothing but resin and 
solder. But the brick "jig" is much the best — and quick- 
est. 

Overheating causes the copper to become rough and 
worn in spots. It often seems as if an acid had eaten into 
the copper in one or more places, but overheating is the 
sole cause of the trouble. Learn to judge quickly and 
correctly the degree of heat in the copper by holding the 
bit about one inch from the cheek. The radiation of heat 
is quickly felt, and in a very short time a man can learn 
in this way, to closely judge the amount of heat in the 
copper. The right heat has been attained when the solder 
flows like water when melted with the copper, on a bit of 
bright new tin plate. If the solder can be made to build 

25 



Soldering. 

or pile up in the least, the copper is too cold. If color 
shows on that portion of the copper which is covered with 
solder, then the bit is too hot. There is quite a range of 
temperature between the two extremes, and there all the 
work of soldering should be done. 

Never try to solder when the tool is so cold that the 
solder will not run freely. Good work cannot be done 
with the copper in that condition. Heat when the solder 
shows the least trace of granular formation, and when it 
begins to "build up" under the copper, from the surface 
of the metal which is being soldered. If the tool be a trifle 
too hot, push it along the top of the brick "jig" a few 
times and the heat will be reduced and the tinning on the 
copper will be improved by the operation. 

In soldering, the same rules apply regarding cleanli- 
ness, as in brazing. The surface must be free from dirt, 
oxide, or any foreign substance which will prevent the 
adherence of the solder. On old work, the surfaces must 
be brightened by scraping, filing or rubbing with sand- 
paper or emery cloth. Scraping is the best, and a useful 
tool for the purpose is shown by Fig. 14. This scraper 
may be bought from the same dealer who supplies solder- 
ing tools and supplies. This tool has a steel blade, which 
should be hardened and should be ground on the side not 
shown in the drawing. The corners of this tool are diffei- 
ent from each other, one being pointed, the others rounded 
off on different radii. 

Where scraping can not be done to advantage, filing 
may be resorted to ; grinding may be done ; emery cloth 
used, or the surface scraped bright .with the blade of a 
knife. The scratch-brush may also be used, but the sur- 
faces must be cleaned of oxide in some manner at any 
cost, or no good soldering can be done. 

26 



Soldering. 

For all small work, the solder should be applied to 
the copper, instead of direct to the work. Fig. 15, illus- 
trates the proper method of picking up solder with the bit. 
A bar of "half and half" is laid on the bench, one end 
being raised a trifle by having a bit of wood, a cold 
chisel, or some other small article placed under it. Touch 
the hot copper to the bar of solder, and a portion will melt 
and adhere to the copper. If the tool be held against the 




Fig. 15. Taking solder from bar. 



solder too long, the solder will run down upon the bench. 
Only a very small portion of the metal can be taken up 
at one time, but the larger the copper, and the tinned 
portion of it, the more solder can be taken up at a time. 
Carry the solder thus taken up to the place to be soldered, 
and, ■ if the surfaces have been properly cleaned and 
fluxed, the solder will adhere to and run over them like 
water. 

When very large surfaces have to be soldered, as in 
running seams in a tin roof, it is necessary to melt the 
solder on the top of the bit as that tool is moved along the 

27 



Soldering. 

seam. When soldering heavy lead pipe, it is necessary 
to feed the solder in the same manner, but for all light 
work, pick up the solder in the manner described above. 
If the copper will not readily pick up the solder, rest as- 
sured that the tool is not in condition to do good work, 
and should be sent at once to the tinning brick. 

Heavy soldering can be done to advantage with both 
the soldering copper and the gasoline torch shown by 
Fig. 2 in the brazing chapter. For jobbing, or for small 
work, the copper may easily be heated by one of these 
convenient sources of heat. All that is necessary is to 
place the tool so that the flame will strike against the 
copper bit, which may be merely balanced on top of the 
torch, upon lugs made for that purpose on the torches 
of the most recent make. For heavy soldering (occasional 
work), especially where large pieces are to be united, 
place the torch, with the copper on top, so that the flame 
will impringe upon the work after it has passed the cop- 
per bit. Then, after the copper has been sufficiently heat- 
ed, the flame may be forced directly against the work to 
be soldered, the torch being held in one hand, the copper 
in the other, and the two worked in conjunction. This 
method permits of a pretty heavy job being done with a 
light soldering bit. Heat can be put into the copper as 
well as into the work, while the soldering operation is 
being carried on. 

Again, the work may be heated in the gasoline flame, 
then tinned with the copper. The entire surfaces to be 
covered with solder being given a perfect coating of 
solder, the requisite flux and the hot tinned copper being 
used for this purpose. After this, the parts of the work 
may be laid together, heated in the gas flame until the 
tinning solder melts, then pressed together and the neces- 

28 



Soldering. 

sary additions of solder, smoothing' and otherwise placing 
the solder, being done with the copper. 

Another method of soldering which is frequently 
used in the machine shop, is known as "sweating." Per- 
haps two pieces of brass have to be fastened together so as 
to leave an invisible joint. The workman will fit the pieces 
as perfectly as possible, then he will wet the parts to come 
in contact, with soldering fluid, and place the parts to- 
gether with a sheet of tin-foil between. The pieces are 
then pressed together and wired or otherwise held fast 
and heated until the tin-foil melts. After being allowed 
to cool, the pieces will be found fastened together so 
nicely that the joint is imperceptible to the eye if good 
fitting has been done. 

Another process, also sometimes called "sweating," 
consists of tinning separately the parts to be united, after 
which they are placed in contact with each other and 
firmly held in position while being heated. After fusion 
of the solder, the object has its several pieces again 
brought as closely into contact as possible, either by tap- 
ping with a hammer, squeezing in a vise, by pressing to- 
gether by hand, or by any means possible. Then, the 
work is left to cool, the superfluous solder removed, and 
a perfect solder joint is the result provided the manipula- 
tions have all been properly carried out. The method 
last described is commonly used in the machine shop for 
uniting for use during turning or planing processes, the 
parts of a ring or bushing which must be in two or more 
pieces after completion. The several parts are fitted to- 
gether, sweated into a continuous ring and then machined, 
after which they are heated, whereupon they fall apart 
as soon as the solder melts. The solder is removed, by 
wiping the hot surfaces with a piece of soft cloth and then 

29 



Soldering. 

taking off the balance of the solder which is in the shape 
of a thin film, with a scraper. — Not the tool shown by 
Fig. 14, but a flat scraper as used by machinists on flat 
work where great truth of surface is required. 

There are several special operations in soldering, 
where special work has to be done, and, in every instance, 
the specials are only adaptations of the ordinary process 
of soldering, to suit the particular work to be done. For 
instance : When a number of small or very small parts 
have to be soldered together in such a manner that the 
soldering of one would cause the others to become un- 
soldered, it is customary to hold each and every piece by 
means of clips and screws, or by means of clamps or 
weights. For some kinds of work, something very differ- 
ent-may be required to hold all the pieces, and, in some 
cases, it is necessary to put the parts in place one by one, 
and hold them there by means of calcined plaster, applied 
in the shape of cream. Each part is held in position until 
the plaster sets, after which they each will stay in place 
until the solder can be applied. 

For small work, which has to be thus held in place, 
the soldering copper is frequently too large to get into the 
small corners between the several parts, and a good deal 
of trouble is frequently met with in getting the solder 
properly distributed. For work of this kind, the blow- 
pipe is the most desirable tool. The blow-torch may be 
substituted for the blow-pipe if desired, but the former 
tool enables the heat to be localized better than with the 
torch. In either case, apply the heat until the solder 
flows readily, then with a short bit of copper wire, fastened 
to the end of an iron wire handle, the solder may readily 
be made to flow where it is needed. 

If the bit of thick copper wire on the end of an iron 

30 



Sold 



ennj 



wire handle is not at hand, a piece of copper wire may be 
used with good results to poke the solder around into the 
joints, but the trouble with the solid copper wire is that 
copper is a much better conductor of heat than the iron 
and the solid copper wire used as a small soldering bit, 
speedily becomes hot along its entire length and in so 
doing takes so much heat away from the business end of 
the tool that it will not continue to melt the solder. 

The value of a soldering job frequently depends upon 
the use of a proper soldering fluid, and the stability of 
the soldered joint often depends largely thereupon. When 
acid is used there is little possibility that the joint will 
be permanent, unless means are taken for removing the 
excess of acid. However, this matter is much of a puz- 
zle to some very advanced engineers, some acid soldered 
joints lasting apparently as long as those soldered with- 
out the use of acid, other acid soldered joints coming to 
pieces very quickly after their making. The electrical 
people have solved the question of the durability of the 
acid soldering joint by prohibiting its use entirely in elec- 
trical work. 

One of the most handy soldering solutions consists 
of common resin dissolved in alcohol. This preparation 
makes a sort of varnish, which, when applied to a sur- 
face, soon parts with its alcohol, leaving a thin film of 
resin exactly where it will do the most good in soldering. 
Some good soldering solutions have borax dissolved in 
them; others have some salammoniac (muriate of am- 
monia) among their ingredients. This substance is the 
natural flux for copper, and, owing to the presence of 
that metal in brass, it works pretty well in fluxing that 
alloy for soldering. 

The most common method of applying resin in sol- 

31 



Soldering. 

tiering is to powder that material and apply it to the 
work by means of a swab consisting of a small tin or 
wooden handle to which a tuft of cotton or a few folds 
of cloth have been fastened. An ordinary coffee mill is 
a desirable machine for pulverizing resin, also for borax. 
In the dry flux salammoniac may be ground up with the 
resin in almost any proportion from one of salammoniac 
to one hundred of resin up. In the liquid solution, the 
proportions may be the same, provided a liquid can be 
found which will carry both the resin and the salam- 
moniac. A solution of salammoniac and borax, or boracic 
acid, is much valued by some mechanics as a soldering 
fluid. 

Several ancient receipts for soldering fluids or acids 
call for "killed spirits of salt." Chemically, the solution 
is one of muriate of zinc. It may be readily prepared, as 
follows: Place three parts of hydrochloric (muriatic) 
acid and one part water in a lead, glass or wooden ves- 
sel, then add pieces of zinc as long as any action of the 
acid upon the zinc, can be seen. . Some zinc remaining 
undissolved in the solution after standing for several 
hours is proof that no more zinc will be dissolved by the 
acid. Before declaring the operation completed, the fol- 
lowing test should be made to determine that there is suf- 
ficient water in the solution, without which the maximum 
quantity of zinc will not be dissolved by the acid. To 
make this test, remove a few drops of the solution to a 
clean vessel and place a bit of clean zinc in the liquid. 
Add water drop by drop, and observe if any action upon 
the zinc follows the addition of water to the solution. 
If such action commences, water should be added to the 
bulk of the solution until further addition does not have 
effect upon the zinc. If, however, no action is observed 

32 



Soldering. 

in the test solution, the process may be dec'a ed finished, 
and the main solution should be a 1 owed to sett e, after 
which the clear portion is careful'y poured off. The 
sediment, consisting of zinc oxide and perhaps impurities 
contained in that metal, is not desirable in a working solu- 
tion for soldering. True, work can be done with dirty 
soldering acid or other fluid, but better work can be done 
with clean solutions, as well as surfaces, and tools, 

Special Methods of Soldering. 

ELECTRICAL WORK 

The various trades and manufactures each demand 
special methods of soldering and joining imposed by 
conditions peculiar to their own branches of industry. 
This holds true to the greatest extent in the electrical 
arts. 

One of the first requirements in any piece of elec- 
trical apparatus or machinery is that all joints or connec- 
tions in the electrical circuit shall be as perfect as possible. 
Poor connections offer resistance to the electrical current, 
and the apparatus may sometimes refuse to work or else 
spark and develop sufficient heat at the fault to seriously 
damage the apparatus and endanger property by fire 
risk. A soldered joint is absolutely essential when a 
good electrical connection is desired. Although it is 
possible to secure a good electrical contact or connection 
by simply clamping a wire under a screw or a nut, it is 
often soldered in addition to prevent any possible 
loosening. Soldering also prevents oxidation of the two 
surfaces brought into contact with each other. 

The most important consideration in work of this 
3 33 



Soldering 

sort is the employment of the proper flux. The code of 
the National Board of Fire Underwriters permits the 
use of a flux composed of chloride of zinc, alcohol, 
glycerine, and water. This preparation is easily applied, 
and remains in place. It permits the solder to flow 
freely, and is not highly corrosive. The proportions in 
which the ingredients of this flux may be mixed vary 
considerably, according to individual taste, but the 
following will generally be found satisfactory: 

Zinc Chloride 5 parts 

Alcohol 4 parts 

Glycerine 3 parts 

Use anhydrous zinc-chloride crystals and dissolve 
in alcohol. The glycerine is added to make the prep- 
aration adhesive. It may be diluted with water if 
desired. Without the water, the alcohol in the prepara- 
tion takes fire if the articles to be soldered are heated 
very hot or a blowpipe is used. Sometimes this is an 
objection. 

However useful this flux may be in soldering various 
parts and repairing mechanical pieces, its use is pro- 
hibitive in soldering wires and conductors which are a 
part of any electrical instruments such as telephone, 
telegraph apparatus, etc. There are a great many fluxes 
on the market put out in the shape of paste and "solder- 
ing sticks." None of these, however, are any more 
suitable for work of the kind just mentioned than the 
chloride-of-zinc solution. 

Some fluxes are of a corrosive nature and eat the 
wires and apparatus after the soldering has been done. 
In many electrical instruments, such as telephone, 
telegraph, and measuring apparatus, the wires may be 
only .005-. 003 inch, or even smaller. It can readily be 

34 



Soldering. 

appreciated that the slightest corrosive action in such 
cases would have a decidedly deleterious effect. Pur- 
chasers of this class of apparatus usually specify that it 
be "rosin-soldered." Although the use of rosin in such 
cases is the best practice, all manufacturers do not 
adhere to it, because very often the solder will flow 
more easily and quickly if some other flux is used, and 
time and labor may be saved. 

Rosin is the best flux for such purposes, and most 
conscientious manufacturers do not depart from its use. 
No other suitable substance has been discovered which 
will serve the purpose of causing the solder to flow and 
still leave the insulating parts in the state of an insulating 
quality, after the work is finished. 

In the case of large conductors which cannot be 
well heated by the copper, it is not always possible to 
obtain good results, and for that reason most elec- 
tricians employ the flame of an alcohol torch or blowlamp. 
Likewise, when the wires are large, or in the shape of 
a heavy cable, rosin is not insisted upon as a flux. 

In factories where the work is light and an employe' 
performs the same operation all day long, the soldering- 
iron is not carried to the work, but the process is reversed. 
The soldering-iron is held in an inclined position in a 
clamp, and the pieces are brought up under the soldering- 
iron. When the work is in the hands of a skilful operator, 
a single wipe across the surface of the iron is sufficient 
to complete the job. 

In such cases it is usual to employ an electric 
soldering-iron, kept at a uniform heat by a coil of wire 
through which a current of electricity passes, contained 
within the body of the iron itself. Electric irons are 
very often provided with a stand so arranged that when 

35 



Soldering. 

the iron is laid down on the stand the amount of current 
is reduced to a degree just sufficient to keep the iron hot. 
In that way the electric current is economized and the 
life of the heating-coil lengthened without the incon- 
venience occasioned were the current to be completely 
shut off and the iron allowed to possibly become cold. 

There are also self-heating soldering-irons on the 
market which embody a small gasolene torch contained 
within the bit and a tank for the fuel carried at the 
other end and composing the handle. 

In telephone and similar work it is usual to employ 
wire which has been tinned or coated with solder in its 
manufacture. The small clips or terminals used on coils 
and magnets are usually tinned, and in that event the 
soldering is conveniently done with solder provided 
with rosin already in it, and known as a self-fluxing 
solder, or as "rosin-core." 

Self-fluxing solders are obtainable in several varie- 
ties. Some are sold in the shape of a seamless tube 
and another is rolled out of a flat strip. The round 
solder is more generally used. The flat solder contains 
a lesser proportion of flux to solder than the round, and 
is used under conditions where less flux is desired. The 
greatest advantage of rosin-cored solder lies in its con- 
venience and the fact that, while both the material and 
labor are also saved, a much neater job is possible and 
unsightly lumps, which often cause short circuits, are 
avoided. 

Fig. 1 8 shows how two wires are "twisted together 
preparatory to soldering. In the first part of the illus- 
tration the ends of two wires are connected, and in the 
second the end of one is connected to another so as to 
form a branch. 

36 



Soldering. 

When wires of a very fine gauge are to be soldered, 
it is impossible to use a torch or blowlamp because the 
excessive heat would melt the wires. A soldering bit 
or copper in the same case would be very awkward and 
impossible to bring into proper position, so it is usual 




^mim= 



Fig. 16. Wires twisted together. 

to employ a small piece of copper wire (about No. 8 
B. S. gauge) which has been tinned and set into a handle 
as a soldering-iron. It may be heated very quickly 
in the flame of an alcohol lamp. 

TIN-PLATE 

When tin-plate is new and bright it is possible to 
solder it without the use of any flux. Rosin is the best 
flux for the purpose, however. If the tin-plate is old 
and tarnished it is necessary to use the chloride-of-zinc 
flux after the metal has been thoroughly cleaned by 
scraping or rubbing with emery-cloth until the surface 
is fresh and bright. After the soldering is finished 
the article should be carefully washed and dried to 
remove all traces of the zinc chloride and prevent the 
possible corrosion of the protecting layer of tin. 

37 



Soldering. 

Tin-plate is one of the easiest substances there is 
to solder, for the reasons that it is already "tinned" 
and is thin enough to absorb the heat quickly so that 
the solder will run very freely. 

GALVANIZED IRON AND ZINC 

Galvanized iron is iron or low steel covered with a 
layer of zinc to protect it from the action of time and 
the elements. Both galvanized iron and sheet zinc 
are best soldered with a bit, using chloride of zinc as a 
flux. If the chloride-of-zinc solution is mixed with 
one-fourth its volume of hydrochloric acid the solder 
will oftentimes flow more readily, the action of the 
"free" acid being to dissolve the oxide from the surface 
of the metal and form more chloride of zinc. The work 
should be washed after the soldering is finished to 
remove all traces of the acid. 

LEAD 

Lead-soldering is usually accomplished with the aid 
of the soldering-bit or copper. The parts to be joined 
are scraped clean, but are rubbed with tallow, which 
serves as the flux in this case, instead of rosin or zinc 
chloride. 

Self-fluxing solder having a core composed of tallow 
instead of rosin can be procured at most hardware 
stores. It is made especially for soldering lead, and is 
particularly desirable for lead-cable repairs and in art 
and stained-glass work. Most amateur craftsmen who 
enjoy making decorative lamp-shades, windows, etc., 
prefer it for that work. 

In making joints in lead it is sometimes desirable 
38 



Soldering. 

to employ a method of autogenous soldering called 
"lead-burning." The result is stronger and cleaner 
work. 

Lead-burning consists in melting the metals and 
causing the parts to flow together and become joined 
without the aid of solder. It requires considerably 
more skill than any other form of brazing or soldering. 
A long step toward success may be taken by the proper 
arrangement of the work. It is usual to provide some- 
thing which may serve as a mold or guide for the melted 
metal. For example, if two lead sheets are to be united 
by soldering, they are laid edge to edge on a sheet of 
some non-heat-conducting substance, such as brick or 
asbestos. The work in the immediate neighborhood 
of the joint is carefully scraped so as to remove all 
oxide or scale which would tend to bind the melted lead 
and prevent it from flowing freely. The metal at the 
seam is melted by a very hot bit or the flame from a 
blowpipe so that there is a uniform flow of lead across 
the seam. It is sometimes necessary to add more lead 
to the seam by melting a strip held in the hand. 

A flame of some sort is the most satisfactory source 
of heat for the average lead-burning job, because not 
only is the heat more uniform, but also more intense, 
and the lead melts at the desired point before the sur- 
rounding metal becomes sufficiently hot to soften. 

There are several types of blowpipe for this pur- 
pose on the market. Some employ an alcohol flame, 
while others make use of mixed hydrogen and air. The 
flame is usually small, sharp-pointed, and very intense. 

Lead-burning is absolutely necessary, and is insisted 
upon in certain classes of work, for instance, in lining 
tanks with lead for chemical solutions, or for joining 

39 



Soldering. 

the grids and lugs of storage batteries. The presence of 
even the smallest amount of solder containing a foreign 
metal such as tin causes a local action to be set up, and 
the chemicals slowly attack the seam at that point. 
Most of the large manufacturers of storage cells also 
make a pair of lead-burning tongs which are of the 
proper size and shape to fit around the lug of their cells. 
These can be purchased for repair work, and provide 
a snug mold, so that all that is necessary is to flow the 
lead with the flame and allow it to cool. 

LEAD PIPES 

Where conditions preclude the possibility of cutting 
a thread, it is sometimes necessary to join an iron pipe 
to a lead pipe by soldering. In such a case the end of the 
iron pipe is first carefully scraped and then tinned with 
the aid of some "sodium solder." Sodium solder is not a 
necessity, but makes possible a much quicker and easier 
operation. 

Sodium solder is prepared by dropping small pieces 
of metallic sodium into a ladle full of melted solder. 
The sodium will melt and become absorbed by the solder 
with a slight puff of smoke. Most of the prepared 
solders which are on the market and readily adhere to 
metals without the aid of a flux contain a certain per- 
centage of sodium. Sodium solder can be used very 
successfully for tinning, but joints made wholly with it 
tend to corrode. 

After the iron pipe has been scraped and tinned 
it is an easy operation to solder the lead pipe to it, using 
tallow as a flux. 

When brass fittings are soldered to an iron pipe 
it is the most desirable to use a blowpipe if possible, 

40 



Soldering. 

because it performs in this case a more satisfactory job 
than the bit or copper. 

The end of the lead pipe is expanded slightly by 
driving in a turnpin, and then carefully scraped inside. 
The clean portion is covered with rosin or tallow. The 
end of the brass fitting is cleaned and tinned, and, after 
being driven into place, a blowpipe flame directed upon 
the joint. More heat should be given to the brass than 
to the lead. The heat should be just sufficient so that 
the solder will flow freely into the joint, but the pipe 
itself will not melt. At the instant of complete fusion 
a quick wipe around the joint with tallow will finish 
and smooth the job. 

The "wiped" joint so commonly employed by 
plumbers in fitting lead pipes where water pressure must 
be withstood is an operation requiring skill and practice. 
The joint is prepared for wiping by first expanding one 
side so that the other will fit snugly into it. After the 
metal has been thoroughly cleaned it is smeared with 
tallow and put in position. "Plumber's" solder is 
splashed or poured over the joint until the metal adjacent 
is heated almost to the melting-point, and the solder 
flows over joint and amalgamates with it. The running 
solder is immediately caught in a wiping-pad held under- 
neath the joint and worked around the joint to the shape 
shown in Fig. 19. As the solder becomes cooler it 
changes to a crystalline and granular state, and is 
"mushy." A wiping-pad is composed of several thick- 
nesses of heavy duck saturated with tallow. 

The portions of the work beyond the joint, where 
it is desirable that no solder should appear, are usually 
painted with a mixture of size and lampblack. 

The same principle is employed in "wiping" joints 
41 



Soldering. 

or seams in sheet lead. The boundaries are painted or 
"soiled" with lampblack so that the solder will not 
adhere to those portions. The area to be covered is 
scraped clean and rubbed with tallow. The solder may- 
be poured on or melted on from a stick heated with a 



^ ^ , ^ 

i- j 



Fig. 17. Wiped joint. 

torch or blowpipe. Perhaps the last method is the best. 
As soon as the work has been heated sufficiently to 
become plastic, the seam is shaped with a wiping-pad 
or with a special-shaped piece of wood or asbestos. 

ALUMINIUM 

Aluminium is the most difficult metal to solder. It 
was a long time before any satisfactory solder for joining 
this metal could be discovered, and for a time it was 
thought impossible. 

The aluminium solders now on the market consist 
of "straight" aluminium solders and "combination" 
solders. The "straight" solder is used for soldering 
aluminium to aluminium and the "combination" solder 
for soldering any metals, copper, brass, etc. (except 
cast iron), to aluminium. 

Parts to be soldered with the straight solder should 
first be cleaned with gasolene by brushing the surface 
to be soldered with a steel file brush to remove al! 
grease. 

Heat the parts to be soldered with the flame of a 
42 



Soldering. 

blowpipe until the solder begins to melt upon them. 
Then brush the melted solder well into the metal. If 
any dross forms on the surface, brush or scrape it off 
well. Each part should be tinned separately and then 
pressed together and soldered. 

To use combination solder, "tin" the metal to be 
soldered to the aluminium with some of the "combina- 
tion," using any good flux for the purpose. After cooling 
remove all traces of the flux and prepare the aluminium 
piece with some of the "straight" solder, as described 
above. The parts may then be joined with some of 
the "straight" solder without the use of any flux. 

The "combination" solder is merely for tinning 
purposes, while the "straight" solder is for the actual 
soldering. 

Solders and Fluxes 

The metallic mixtures used for joining other metals 
with the aid of heat are called solders. The variety and 
number is considerable, but may be divided into two 
general classes — namely, "hard" and "soft" solders. 

Soft solders are alloys of tin, lead, etc., which melt 
at comparatively low temperatures and are usually em- 
ployed in conjunction with a copper bit or soldering-iron. 
Hard solders are alloys of silver, copper, zinc, etc., which 
melt at very much higher temperatures. A torch or 
blowpipe must be used to obtain sufficient heat to melt 
hard solders. 

SOFT SOLDERS 

Soft solder finds its principal use in ordinary sheet- 
metal or tinsmiths' work, in which tin-plate, copper, 
brass, and zinc are the materials most frequently requir- 
ing to be soldered. 

43 



Soldering. 

Tin and lead in varying combination are the prin- 
cipal constituents of soft solders. They have different 
properties and melting-points, according to the pro- 
portion between the two metals. 

The manufacture of solder is very simple. If the 
alloys are to be mixed in small quantities, a sensitive 
pair of scales is required to weigh the constituents 
accurately. When made in quantity a slight variation 
in the proportion is not so noticeable. 

Lead has a higher melting-point than tin, and should 
naturally be melted first if it were not for the fact that 




Fig. 18. Mold. 

it easily oxidizes when melted alone. Melt the tin first 
and the lead afterward, adding it in small lumps until 
it has all been melted. Stir the mixture constantly 
with a wooden paddle until the metals are thoroughly 
mixed. If not carefully stirred some parts of the solder 
will contain the metals in different proportions from the 
other parts, and will have a different fusing-point. 

44 



Soldering. 

Solder may be molded in the form of sticks by cast- 
ing in an iron mold arranged as in Fig. 15. The sides 
are slightly wider at the top than at the bottom, so 
that the rods can easily be removed. 

It is preferable to prepare solder in a clay pot or 
Hessian crucible. If an iron pot is used, solder will take 
up a trace of the iron and become harder and more 
brittle than if the clay pot were used. 

In some cases it is desirable to add a little 
bismuth on account of the property which the latter 
possesses of materially lowering the fusing-point of 
any alloy of which it is a part. While all solders 
have a very low fusing-point, they also have the dis- 
advantage of being brittle and of possessing little 
cementing power. 

In preparing any solder containing bismuth, the 
lead and tin should be melted and mixed first. The 
mixture is then removed from the fire and the bismuth 
added in powdered form, stirring all the while with a 
wooden paddle. 

The composition of some of the most common 
forms of solder is given below: 

No. 1. — Plumbers' solder, also called "half-and- 
half." Used for wiped joints, etc.: tin, 1 part; lead, 1 
part. Melts at 370 F. 

No. 2. — Ordinary solder for general use with a 
soldering-bit: tin, 5 parts; lead, 3 parts. Melts at 
350° F. 

No. 3. — Solder for blowpipe: tin, 2 parts; lead, 1 
part. Melts at 340 F. 

No. 4. — Solder for blowpipe: tin, 2 parts; lead, 1 
part; to each pound of the above add one-half ounce of 
bismuth. Melts at 310 F. 

45 



Soldering. 

No. 5. — Easy-running blowpipe solder: tin, 2 parts; 
lead, 1 part; bismuth, 1 part. Melts at 245 F. 

No. 6. — Sodium solder: add a few small pieces of 
solder about as large as grains of wheat to a ladleful of 
molten No. 1 or No. 2 solder. 

No. 7. — In some cases a solder having a very low 
melting-point for pewter, etc., is desirable. In that case 
the following alloy will be found suitable: lead, 2 parts; 
tin, 1 part; bismuth, 2 parts. Melts at 236 F. 

No. 8. — Wood's metal. This is interesting because 
it melts below the boiling-point of water. It is useful 
for soldering detector minerals in wireless telegraphy, 
which are easily damaged by excessive heat: cadmium, 
1 part; tin, 2 parts; lead, 4 parts; bismuth, 7 parts. 

Whenever it is desirable to make solders which are 
especially adapted to one particular use or metal the 
following table will be found very useful: 

SOFT SOLDERS 



Metal to be Soldered 


Percentage of 


Flux 


Tin 


Lead 




33 
50 

55 
58 
64 

66 

67 
99 


67 
50 

45 
42 

36 
34 

33 
1 


Tallow or Rosin 




Chloride of Am- 




monia 
Hydrochloric Acid 
Hydrochloric Acid 
Chloride of Zinc or 

Rosin 
Chloride of Zinc, 
Rosin, or Chlo- 
ride of Ammonia 
Chloride of Zinc 


Galvanized Iron or Steel. . 
Tinned Steel or Iron 

Brass or Gun-metal 

Gold and Silver 


Block Tin 


Chloride of Zinc 







46 



Soldering. 



Metal to be Soldered 


Tin 
JO 

33 
25 


Zinc 


Aluminium 


Phosphor, F , ux 


Aluminium 

Bismuth 

Pewter 


25 
Lead 

33 

25 


3 
Bismuth 

33 
50 


2 


Stearine 

Chloride of Zinc 
Gallipole 



HARD SOLDERS 

The fusion-point of hard solders is usually so high 
that they cannot be melted with an iron, but must be 
raised to a red heat with the aid of a blast or a blowlamp. 
The great variety of hard solders is made necessary by 
the differences in the nature of the various materials 
which may require soldering. Not all of the numerous 
formulas for hard solders are perfectly reliable, but 
those given below have been carefully tested and found 
reliable. 

Pure copper, where its color is no objection, is often 
employed in the form of thin strips for soldering cast 
iron, copper, wrought iron, and steel. 

The best and most usual form of hard solder for 
soldering copper is composed of five parts of copper and 
one of lead. A very small percentage of tin may some- 
times be added with good results. 

Brass solders are used to solder brass, bronze, 
copper, iron, and steel. These alloys are composed of 
brass and copper in varying proportions. The fusing- 
point is raised as the amount of copper is increased. The 
alloy becomes more brittle as the proportion of zinc 
becomes greater. This objectionable property may be 
somewhat modified by adding a little tin. Too much 
tin, however, will cause the solder to become brittle 
again. 

47 



Sold 



erinj 



The following four formulas make excellent hard 
solders for all purposes where a high melting-point is 
required : 

VERY HARD YELLOW SOLDERS 

No. I. — Copper, 58 parts; zinc, 42 parts. 

No. 2. — Sheet brass, 85.42 parts; zinc, 13.58 parts. 

No. 3. — Brass, 7 parts, zinc, 1 part. 

No. 4.— Copper, 53.30 parts; zinc, 43.10 parts; tin, 
1.30 parts; lead, .30 part. 

The hardest solders are given first. The following 
four have lower melting-points than those above, and 
are more suitable where it is desired to solder brass 
alone. 

No. 5. — Brass, 66.66 parts; zinc, 33.34 parts. 

No. 6. — Brass, 50 parts; zinc, 50 parts. 

No. 7. — Brass, 12 parts; zinc, 4 to -7 parts; tin, 
I part. 

No. 8. — Copper, 44 parts; zinc, 49 parts; tin, 3.20 
parts; lead, 1.20 parts. 

The proper composition of hard solders for specific 
purposes is shown in the following table: 



Metal to be Soldered 


Copper 


Zinc 


Silver 


Gold 


Flux 


Copper 

Brass, Soft 

Brass, Hard 

Cast Iron 

Iron and Steel 

Gold 


50 
22 

45 
55 
64 
22 
20 


50 

78 

55 
45 
36 
2 
10 


II 


65 
JO 


Borax 

Borax 

Borax 

Cuprous Oxide 

Borax 

Borax 

Borax 







48 



Soldering. 

GERMAN-SILVER SOLDERS 

German silver is a very hard alloy, containing nickel, 
and requires a solder of somewhat similar nature. 

German-silver solders possess considerable strength, 
and are often used for soldering steel. The color is very 
similar to that of steel. 

Hard German-silver solders contain a large pro- 
portion of nickel and are very strong. They require 
a very high heat for melting, and usually cannot be fused 
without the aid of a bellows or blast. 

In preparing German-silver solders, the copper is 
melted first, and then the zinc and nickel added simul- 
taneously. 

HARD GERMAN-SILVER SOLDERS (also Called 

steel solders) 

No. I. — Copper, 35 parts; zinc, 56.5 parts; nickel, 
9.5 parts. 

No. 2. — Copper, 38 parts; zinc, 50 parts; nickel, 
12 parts. 

SOFT GERMAN-SILVER SOLDERS 

No. 3. — Copper, 4.5 parts; zinc, 7 parts; nickel, 
1 part. 

No. 4. — Copper, 35 parts; zinc, 56.5 parts; nickel, 
8.5 parts. 

In soldering German-silver articles the solder is 
usually applied in the form of a powder or in very small 
pieces. The solder may be powdered in a mortar if 
taken from the fire at the right temperature, when it is 
brittle. This operation is a somewhat difficult one, and 
^0 the usual and perhaps the best plan is to cast it ir 
4 49 



Soldering. 

the form of a bar or cylinder, and then place the latter in a 
turning-lathe and adjust the tool so that fine shavings 
are cut off. The shavings are then heated until they 
become brittle, at which stage they are easily pulverized 
in a mortar. 

SILVER SOLDERS 

Silver solders are not, as might be inferred from 
the name, employed only for the purpose of joining 
silver; but because of their great strength and resistance 
are used for many other metals. Like all other solders, 
they may be divided into the two groups, "hard" and 
"soft." 

SILVER SOLDERS FOR SOLDERING SILVERWARE 

Hard Soft 

No. i No. 4 

Copper, i part; Silver, 2 parts; 

Silver, 4 parts. Brass, 1 part. 

No. 2 No. 5 

Copper, 1 part; Silver, 3 parts; 

Silver, 20 parts; Copper, 2 parts; 

Brass, 9 parts. Zinc, 1 part. 

No. 3 No. 6 

Copper, 2 parts; Silver, 10 parts; 

Silver, 28 parts; Brass, 10 parts; 

Brass, 10 parts. Tin, 1 part. 

SILVER SOLDERS FOR IRON, CAST IRON, STEEL, AND COPPER 

No. 1. — Silver, 10 parts; copper, 10 parts. 
No. 2. — Silver, 20 parts; copper, 30 parts; zinc, 10 
parts. 

50 



Soldering. 

Silver solders are usually employed in the shape of 
wire, narrow strips, or filings. 

FLUXES 

No one flux can be assigned to any one metal as 
being peculiarly adapted or fitted to that metal for all 
purposes. The nature of the solder used often deter- 
mines the flux. 

Directions have already been given for preparing 
chloride of zinc for soft soldering. 

A good flux for hard soldering may be made by 
heating three parts of ordinary crystal borax and one 
part of boracic acid together over a gentle fire until 
the whole melts together into a clear, thick sirup. 

The flux is used in this condition and is not dried. 
It will remain a long time without drying and is easily 
applied to the surface to be soldered, to which it firmly 
adheres. This flux also possesses the further advantages 
of being easily removed after soldering and not swelling 
when heated. 



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CATALOGUE 

OF 
Latest and Best 

Mechanical, Scientific and 
Practical Books 

PRACTICAL BOOKS FOR PRACTICAL MEN 




Any of these books will be sent prepaid to any 

part of the world, on receipt of price. 

Remit by Draft, Postal Order, Express 

Order or Registered Lettf*. 

nana 

PUBLISHED AND FOR SALEjBY 



Tie Norman W. Henley Publishing Co. 

132 Nassau St., New York, U. S. A. 



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INDEX TO SUBJECTS 

Automobiles 3, 4, 5 

Automobile Charts 4, 5 

Balloons 4 

Brazing and Soldering 5 

Cams IS 

Charts 4, 5, 6 

Chemistry 26 

Compressed Air 6 

Concrete 6, 7, 8 

1 (ictionaries 9 

Dies— Metal Work 8, 9 

Drawing — Sketching Paper 9 

Electricity 10, 11, 12, 13 

Enameling 13 

Factory Management, etc 13 

Fuel 13 

Flying Machines 4 

Gas Engines and Gas 14, 15 

Gearing and Cams 15 

Hydraulics 16 

Ice and Refrigeration 16 

Inventions — Patents 16 

Knots 16 

Lathe Work 17 

Liquid Air 17 

Locomotive Engineering 18, 19, 20 

Machine Shop Practice 20, 21, 22, 23 

Manual Training 24 

Marine Engineering 23, 24 

Mechanical Movements 22 

Metal Work-Dies 8, 9 

Mining 24 

Motor Cycles 4 

Patents and Inventions 16 

Pattern Making 25 

Perfumery 25 

Plumbing 26 

Receipt Book 26 

Refrigeration and Ice 16 

Rubber 27 

Saws 27 

Screw Cutting 28 

Sheet Metal Work 8 

Soldering 4 

Steam Engineering 28, 29 

Steam Heating and Ventilation 30 

Steam Pipes 29 

Steel 30 

Tractor 31 

Turbines 31 

Welding 31 

Wireless Telephones 13 

E3F~ Any of these books will be sent prepaid to any part of the 

world, on receipt of price. 

REMIT by Draft, Postal Money Order, Express Money Order, 

or by Registered Mail. 

2 



AUTOMOBILES— MOTORCYCLES 

MODERN GASOLINE AUTOMOBILE, ITS DE- 
SIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND REPAIR. By Victor 
W. Page. The most complete, practical and up-to-date 
treatise on gasoline automobiles, explaining fully all princi- 
ples pertaining to gasoline automobiles and their component 
parts. It contains the latest and most reliable information 
on all phases of automobile construction, operation, mainte- 
nance and repair. 1917 Edition just published. 5J4 x 7$i. 
Cloth, 850 pages, 600 illustrations, 12 folding plates. 

Price $ 2.50 

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS RELATING TO 
MODERN AUTOMOBILE CONSTRUCTION, DRIV- 
ING AND REPAIR. By Victor W. Page. A practi- 
cal self-instructor for students, mechanics and motorists, con- 
sisting of thirty-seven lessons in the form of questions and 
answers, written with special reference to the requirements 
of the non-technical reader desiring easily understood ex- 
planatory matter relating to all branches of automobiling. A 
popular work at a popular price. 5J4 x 7yi. Cloth, 650 
pages, 392 illustrations, 3 folding plates. 1917 Edition just 
published. Price, $1.50 

AUTOMOBILE REPAIRING MADE EASY. By 

Victor W. Page. A thoroughly practical book containing 
complete directions for making repairs to all parts of the 
motor car mechanism. Written in a thorough but non- 

technical manner. This book contains special instructions on 
Tire repairing and rebuilding. Latest timing practice. Eight- 
and twelve-cylinder motors, etc., etc. You will never "get 
stuck" on a job if you own this book. 1,000 specially made 
engravings on 500 plates. 1,056 pages (5/ 2 x8). 11 folding 
plates. 1917 Edition. Price, $3.00 

STARTING, LIGHTING AND IGNITION SYS- 
TEMS. By Victor W. Page. A practical treatise on 
modern starting and ignition system practice. Includes a 
complete exposition of storage battery construction, care and 
repair. Explains all types of starting motors — generators — 
magnetos and all ignition or lighting system units. Noth- 
ing has been omitted, no details have been slighted. Nearly 
500 pages. 297 specially made engravings. 1917 Edition. 

Price, $1.50 

THE MODEL T FORD CAR, ITS CONSTRUC- 
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Page. This is a complete instruction book. All parts of the 
Ford Model T Car are described and illustrated; the con- 
struction is fully described and operating principles made 
clear to everyone. Every Ford owner needs this practical 
book. 1917 Edition. 75 illustrations, 300 pages, 2 large 
folding plates. Price, f l.OO 

HOW TO RUN AN AUTOMOBILE. By Victor W. 
Page. This treatise gives concise instructions for starting 
and running all makes of gasoline automobiles, how to care 
for them, and gives distinctive features of control. Describes 
every step for shifting gears, controlling engine, etc. Thor- 
oughly illustrated. ' Price, 50 cents 



AUTOMOBILE WELDING WITH THE OXY- 
ACETYLENE FLAME. By M. Keith Dunham. Ex- 
plains in a simple manner apparatus to be used, its care, and 
how to construct necessary shop equipment. Proceeds then 
to the actual welding of all automobile parts, in a manner 
understandable by everyone. Gives principles never to be 
forgotten. Aluminum, cast iron, steel, copper, brass, bronze 
and malleable iron are fully treated, as well as a clear ex- 
planation of the proper manner to burn the carbon out of 
the combustion head. This book is of utmost value, since 
the perplexing problems arising when metal is heated to a 
melting point are fully explained and the proper methods to 
overcome them shown. 167 pages, fully illustrated. 

Price, $1.00 

THE AUTOMOBILIST'S POCKET COMPANION 
AND EXPENSE RECORD. By Victor W. PAGi. 
'lhis book is not only valuable as a convenient cost record 
but contains much information of value to motorists. In-, 
eludes a condensed digest of auto laws of all States, a lubri- 
cation schedule, hints for care of storage battery and care of 
tires, location of road troubles, anti-freezing solutions, horse- 
power table, driving hints and many useful tables and recipes 
of interest to all motorists. Not a technical book in any 
sense of the word, just a collection of practical facts in sim- 
ple language for the everyday motorist. Convenient pocket 
size. Price, $1.00 

MOTORCYCLES, SIDE CARS AND CYCLE- 
CARS, THEIR CONSTRUCTION, MANAGEMENT 
Ai>D REPAIR. By Victor W. Page. Describes fully 
all leading types of machines, their desien. construction, 
maintenance, operation and repair. 550 pages. 350 specially 
made illustrations, 5 folding plates. Priee, $ I .in 

AUTOMOBILE CHARTS 

LOCATION OP GASOLINE ENGINE TROUBLES 
MADE EASY. This chart shows clearly all parts of a 
typical four-cylinder gasoline engine of the four-cycle type. 
It simplifies location of all engine troubles. No details 
omitted. Size 25 x 38 inches. Securely mailed on receipt of 

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LOCATION OF CARBURETION TROUBLES 
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parts. Instructions are given for carburetor adjustment. 
Size 24 x 38 inches Priee, 25 cents 

LOCATION OF IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLES 
MADE EASY. In this chart all parts of a typical double 
ignition system using battery and magneto current are shown, 
and suggestions are given for readily finding ignition troubles 
and eliminating them when found. Size 24 x 38 inches. 

Price, 25 cent i 

LOCATION OF ENGINE COOLING AND LUB- 
RICATING TROUBLES MADE EASY. This is a 
combination chart showing all components of the approved 
form of water cooling group as well as a modern engine lu- 
brication system. It shows all points where defects exist 
that may result in engine overheating, both in cooling and 
oiling systems. Size 24 x 38 inches. Price, 25 cents 
4 



LOCATION OP FORD ENGINE TROUBLES 
MADE EASY. Chart shows clear sectional views depict 
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It outlines clearly all parts of the engine, fuel supply sys- 
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LUBRICATION OF THE MOTOR CAR CHASSIS. 

This chart presents the plan view of a typical six-cylinder 
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the correct lubrication of any modern car. A practical chart 
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LOCATION OF MOTOR CYCLE TROUBLES 
MADE EASY. This chart simplifies location of all power 
plant troubles and will prove of value to all who have to do 
with the operation, repair or sale of motorcycles. No details 
omitted. Size 30 x 20 inches. Price, 25 cents 



BRAZING AND SOLDERING 



BRAZING AND SOLDERING. By James F. 
Hobart. The only book that shows you just how to handle 
any job of brazing or soldering that comes along; it tells 
you what mixture to use, how to make a furnace if you 
need one. Full of valuable kinks. The fifth edition of this 
book has just been published, and to it much new matter 
and a large number of tested formulas for all kinds of 
solders and fluxes have been added. Illustrated. 25 cents 



CHARTS 



MODERN SUBMARINE CHART — "WITH 200 
PARTS NUMBERED AND NAMED. A cross-section 
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submarine of the latest type. No details omitted — everything 
is accurate and to scale. This chart is really an encyclo- 
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BOX CAR CHART. A chart showing the anatomy of 
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GONDOLA CAR CHART. A chart showing the 
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PASSENGER CAR CHART. A chart showing the 
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numbered and its proper name given in a reference list. 

Price, 25 cents 



STEEL, HOPPER BOTTOM COAL CVR. A chart 
showing the anatomy of a steel hopper bottom coal car, 
having every part of the car numbered and its proper name 
given in a reference list. , Price, 25 cents 

TRACTIVE POWER CHART. A chart whereby 
you can find the tractive power or drawbar pull of any loco- 
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equal, how driving wheels and steam pressure affect the 
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HORSE POWER CHART. Shows the horse power 
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BOILER ROOM CHART. By Geo. L. Fowler. A 
chart — size 14 x 28 inches — showing in isometric perspective 
the mechanisms belonging in a modern boiler room. This 
chart is really a dictionary of the boiler room — the names 
of more than 200 parts being given. Price, 25 cents 

COMPRESSED AIR 



COMPRESSED AIR IN ALL ITS APPLICA- 
TIONS. By Gardner D. Hiscox. This is the most com- 
plete book on the subject of air that has ever been issued, 
and its thirty-five chapters include about every phase of the 
subject one can think of. It may be called an encyclopedia 
of compressed air. It is written by an expert, who, in its 
665 pages, has dealt with the subject in a comprehensive 
manner, no phase of it being omitted. Over 500 illustra- 
tions. Fifth Edition, revised and enlarged. Cloth bound, 
$5.00. Half Morocco, Price, $6.50 

This is the standard work on this important subject. 



CONCRETE 



CONCRETE WALL FORMS. By A. A. Houghton. 
A new automatic wall clamp is illustrated with working 
drawings. Other types of wall forms, clamps, separators, 
etc., are also illustrated and explained. Price, 50 cents 

CONCRETE FLOORS AND SIDEWALKS. By 

A. A. Houghton. The molds for molding squares, hexagonal 
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are fully illustrated and explained. Price, 50 cents 

PRACTICAL CONCRETE SILO CONSTRUC- 
TION. By A. A. Houghton. Complete working drawings 
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book are of the utmost value in planning and constructing 
all forms of concrete silos. Price, 50 cent*- 



MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, AftUAK- 
IUMS AND NATATORIUMS. By A. A. Houghton. 
Simple molds and instruction are given for molding differ- 
ent styles of concrete bath tubs, swimming pools, etc. 

Price, 50 cents 

MOLDING CONCRETE CHIMNEYS, SLATE 
AND ROOF TILES. By A. A. Houghton. The manu- 
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treated. Valuable data on all forms of reinforced concrete 
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of chimney construction with molds are shown in this 
valuable treatise. Price, 50 cents 

MOLDING AND CURING ORNAMENTAL CON- 
CRETE. By A. A. Houghton. The proper proportions 
of cement and aggregates for various finishes, also the meth- 
ods of thoroughly mixing and placing in the molds, are fully 
treated. An exhaustive treatise on this subject that every 
concrete worker will find of daily use and value. 

Price, 50 cent* 

CONCRETE MONUMENTS, MAUSOLEUMS AND 
BURIAL VAULTS. By A. A. Houghton. The mold- 
ing of concrete monuments to imitate the most expensive 
cut stone is explained in this treatise, with working draw- 
ings of easily built molds. Cutting inscriptions and designs 
is also fully treated. Price, 50 cents 

CONCRETE BRIDGES, CULVERTS AND SEW- 
ERS. By A. A. Houghton. A number of ornamental con- 
crete bridges with illustrations of molds are given. A col- 
lapsible center or core for_ bridges, culverts and sewers is 
fully illustrated with detailed instructions for building. 

Price, 50 cent* 

CONSTRUCTING CONCRETE PORCHES. By 

A. A. Houghton. A number of designs with working draw- 
ings of molds are fully explained so any one can easily con- 
struct different styles of ornamental concrete porches with- 
out the purchase of expensive molds. Price, 50 cents 

MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER POTS, 
BOXES, JARDINIERES, ETC. By A. A. Houghton. 
The molds for producing many original designs of flower 
pots, urns, flower boxes, jardinieres, etc., are fully illustrated 
and explained, so the worker can easily construct and operate 
same. Price, 50 cents 

MOLDING CONCRETE FOUNTAINS AND 
LAWN ORNAMENTS. By A. A. Houghton. The 
molding of a number of designs of lawn seats, curbing, hitch- 
ing posts, pergolas, sun dials and other forms of ornamental 
concrete, for the ornamentation of lawns and gardens, is 
fully illustrated and described. Price, 50 cents 

CONCRETE ON THE FARM AND IN THE 
SHOP. By H. Colvin Campbell. This is a new book 
from cover to cover, illustrating and describing in plain, 
simple language many of the numerous appliances of concrete 
within the range of the home worker. 150 pages, 51 illus- 
trations. Price, 75 cents 
7 



.CONCRETE FROM SAND MOLDS. By A. A. 

Houghton. A practical work treating on a process which 
has heretofore been held as a trade secret by the few who 
possessed it, and which will successfully mold every and any 
class of ornamental concrete work. The process of molding 
concrete with sand molds is of the utmost practical value, 
possessing the manifold advantages of a low cost of molds, 
the ease and rapidity of operation, perfect details to all orna 
mental designs, density and increased strength of the con- 
crete, perfect curing of the work without attention and the 
easy removal of the molds regardless of any undercutting 
the design may have. 192 pages. Fully illustrated. Cloth. 

Price, ?2.00 

ORNAMENTAL CONCRETE .WITHOUT 
MOLDS. By A. A. Houghton. The process for making 
ornamental concrete without molds has long been held as a 
secret, and now, for the first time, this process is given to 
the public. The book reveals the secret and is the only 
book published which explains a simple, practical method 
whereby the concrete worker is enabled, by employing 
wood and metal templates of different designs, to mold or 
model in concrete any cornice, archivolt, column, pedestal, 
base cap, urn or pier in a monolithic form — right upon the 
job. These may be molded in units or blocks, and then 
built up to suit the specifications demanded. This work is 
fully illustrated, with detailed engravings. Cloth. 

Price, $2.00 

POPULAR HANDBOOK FOR CEMENT AND 
CONCRETE USERS. By Myron H. Lewis. Everything 
of value to the concrete user is contained, including kinds 
of cement employed in construction, concrete architecture, 
inspection and testing, waterproofing, coloring and painting, 
rules, tables, working and cost data. _ The book comprises 
thirty-three chapters. A valuable addition to the library of 
every cement and concrete user. Cloth, 430 pages, 126 illus- 
trations. Price, ?3.50 

WATERPROOFING CONCRETE. By Myron H. 
Lewis. Modern methods of waterproofing concrete and other 
structures. A condensed statement of the principles, rules 
and precautions to be observed in waterproofing and damp- 
nroofing structures and structural materials. Paper binding. 
Illustrated. Second Edition. Price, SO cents 



DIES— METAL WORK 



PUNCHES, DIES AND TOOLS FOR MANUFAC- 
TURING IN PRESSES. By J. V. Woodworth. An 
encyclopedia of die-making, punch-making, die-sinking, sheet- 
metal working, and making of special tools, suppresses, de- 
vices and mechanical combinations for punching, cutting, 
bending, forming, piercing, drawing, compressing, and assem- 
bling sheet-metal parts and also articles of other materials 
in machine tools. This is a distinct work from the author's 
book entitled "Dies; Their Construction and Use." 500 
pages, 700 engravings. Second edition. Cloth. 
v Price, $4.00 

3 



DIES, THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND USE FOR 
THE MODERN WORKING OF SHEET METALS. 

By J. V. Woodworth. A new book by a practical man, for 
those who wish to know the latest practice in the working 
of sheet metals. It shows how dies are designed, made and 
used, and those who are engaged in this line of work can 
secure many valuable suggestions. Fifth edition. 505 illus- 
trations, 384 pages. Cloth. Price, $3.00 

DROP FORGING, DIE-SINKING AND MA- 
CHINE-FORMING OF STEEL.. By J. V. Woodworth. 
The processes of die-sinking and force-making, which are 
thoroughly described and illustrated in this admirable work, 
are rarely to be found explained in such a clear and con- 
cise manner as is here set forth. The process of die-sink- 
ing relates to the engraving or sinking of the female or lower 
dies, such as are used for drop forgings, hot and cold 
machine forging, swedging and the press working of metals. 
The process of force-making relates to the engraving or 
raising of the male or upper dies used in producing the lower 
dies for the press-forming and machine-forging of duplicate 
parts of metal. The book contains eleven chapters, and the 
information contained in these chapters is just what will 
prove most _ valuable to the forged-metal worker. All opera- 
tions described in the work are thoroughly illustrated by 
means of perspective half-toftes and outline sketches of the 
machinery employed. 300 detailed illustrations. 339 pages, 
cloth. Price, $2.50 

DICTIONARIES 



STANDARD ELECTRICAL, DICTIONARY. By 

T. O'Conor Sloane. A practical handbook of reference con- 
taining definitions of about 5,000 distinct words, terms and 
phrases. The definitions are terse and concise and include 
every term used in electrical science. Recently issued. 
Twelfth Edition. 682 pages, 393 illustrations. Price, $3.00 



DRAWING — SKETCHING PAPER 

LINEAR PERSPECTIVE SELF-TAUGHT. By 

Herman T. C. Kraus. This work gives the theory and 
practice of linear perspective, as used in architectural, engi- 
neering and mechanical drawings. The arrangement of the 
book is good; the plate is on the left-hand, while the descrip- 
tive text follows on the opposite page, so as to be readily 
referred to. The drawings are on sufficiently large scale to 
show the work clearly and are plainly figured. The whole 
work makes a very complete course on perspective drawing. 
Cloth. Price, $2.50 

SELF-TAUGHT MECHANICAL DRAWING 
AND ELEMENTARY MACHINE DESIGN. By F. 

L. Sylvester, M.E., Draftsman, with additions by Erik 
Oberg, associate editor of "Machinery." A practical ele- 
mentary treatise on Mechanical Drawing and Machine De- 
sign, comprising the first principles of geometric and mechan- 
ical drawing, workshop mathematics, mechanics, strength of 
materials and the calculation and_ design of machine details, 
compiled for the use of practical mechanics and young 
draftsmen. 330 pages, 215 engravings, cloth. Price, $2.00 
9 



j A NEW SKETCHING PAPER. A new specially 
ruled paper to enable you to make sketches or drawings in 
isometric perspective without any figuring or fussing. It is 
being used for shop details as well as for assembly drawings, 
as it makes one sketch do the work of three, and no work- 
man can help seeing just what is wanted. Pads of 40 sheets, 
6x9 inches, Price, 25 cents 

9 x 12 inches, Price, SO cents 

12 x 18 inches, Price, .f 1.00 

PRACTICAL, PERSPECTIVE. By Richards and 
Colvin. Shows just how to make all kinds of mechanical 
Irawings in the only practical perspective isometric. Makes 
everything plain so that any mechanic can understand a 
sketch or drawing in this way. Saves time in the drawing 
room and mistakes in the shops. Contains practical exam- 
ples of various classes of work. Third edition. Limp 
cloth. Price, 50 cents 

ELECTRICITY 



ARITHMETIC OF ELECTRICITY. By Prof. T. 
O'Conor Sloane. A practical treatise on electrical calcula- 
tions, of all kinds reduced to a series of rules, all of the 
simplest forms, and involving only ordinary arithmetic; each 
rule illustrated by one or more practical problems with de- 
tailed solution of each one. This book is classed among the 
most useful works published on the science of electricity, 
covering as it does the mathematics of electricity in a man- 
ner that will attract the attention of those who are not 
familiar with algebraical formulas. 160 pages. Twenty-first 
edition. Cloth. Price, $1.00 

DYNAMO BUILDING FOR AMATEURS, OR 
HOW TO CONSTRUCT A FIFTY WATT DY- 
NAMO. By Arthur J. Weed. A practical treatise show- 
ing in detail the construction of a small dynamo or motor, 
the entire machine work of which can be done on a small 
foot lathe. Dimensioned working drawings are given for 
each piece of machine work, and each operation is clearly 
described. This machine, when used as a dynamo, has an 
output of fifty watts; when used as a motor it will drive a 
small drill press or lathe. It can be used to drive a sewing 
machine on any and all ordinary work. The book is illus- 
trated with more than sixty original engravings showing the 
actual construction of the different parts. 

Price, paper binding-, 50 cents; Cloth, $1.00 

ELECTRIC WIRING, DIAGRAMS AND 
SWITCHBOARDS. By Newton Harrison. This is the 
only complete work issued showing and telling you what you 
should know about direct and alternating current wiring. It 
is a ready reference. The work is free from advanced tech- 
nicalities and mathematics, arithmetic being used throughout. 
It is in every respect a handy, well-written, instructive, com- 
prehensive volume on wiring for the wireman, foreman, con- 
tractor or electrician. 272 pages, 105 illustrations. Cloth. 

Price. ?1.50 

10 



COMMUTATOR CONSTRUCTION. By Wm. Bax 

ter, Jr. The business end of any dynamo or motor of trie 
direct current type is the commutator. This book goes into 
the designing, building and maintenance of commutators, 
shows how to locate troubles and how to remedy them; 
everyone who fusses with dynamos needs this. Fourth edi- 
tion. Price, 25 cents 

ELECTRIC FURNACES AND THEIR INDUS- 
TRIAL, APPLICATIONS. By J. Wright. This is a 
book which will prove of interest to many classes of people; 
the manufacturer who desires to know what product can be 
manufactured successfully in the electric furnace, the chem- 
ist -who wishes to post himself on the electro-chemistry, and 
the student of science who merely looks into the subject 
from curiosity. 288 pages. Fully illustrated, cloth. 

Price, ?3.00 

ELECTRIC LIGHTING AND HEATING POCK- 
ET BOOK. By Sydney F. Walker. This book puts in 
convenient form useful information regarding the apparatus 
which is likely to be attached to the mains of an electrical 
company. Tables of units and equivalents are included and 
useful electrical laws and formulas are stated. 438 pages, 
300 engravings. Bound in leather. Pocket book form. 

Price, $3.00 

ELECTRIC TOY MAKING, DYNAMO BUILD- 
ING, AND ELECTRIC MOTOR CONSTRUCTION. 

This work treats of the making at home of electrical toys, 
electrical apparatus, motors, dynamos and instruments in 
general, and is designed to bring within the reach of young 
and old the manufacture of genuine and useful electrical 
appliances. 210 pages, cloth. Fully illustrated. Twentieth 
edition, enlarged. Price, $1.00 

PRACTICAL ELECTRICITY. By Prof. T. 
O' Conor Sloane. This work of 768 pages was previously 
known as Sloane's Electricians' 'Hand Book, and is intended 
for the practical electrician who has to make things go. 
The entire field of electricity is covered within its pages. 
It contains no useless theory; everything is to the point. It 
teaches you just what you should know about electricity. It 
is the standard work published on the subject. Forty-one 
chapters, 610 engravings, 761 pages, handsomely bound in 
cloth. Third edition. Price, $2.50 

ELECTRICITY SIMPLIFIED. By Prof. T. 
O'Conor Sloane. The object of "Electricity Simplified" is 
to make the subject as plain as possible and to show what 
the modern conception of electricity is; to show how two 
plates of different metals immersed in acid can send a mes- 
sage around the globe; to explain how a bundle of copper 
wire rotated by a steam engine can be the agent in lighting 
our streets, to tell what the volt, ohm and ampere are, and 
what high and low tension mean; and to answer the ques- 
tions that perpetually arise in the mind in this age o.f elec- 
tricity. 172 pages. Illustrated. Thirteenth edition. X'loth. 

Price, «^.00 

11 



HOUSE "WIRING. By Thomas W. Poppe. Describing 
and illustrating up-to-date methods of installing electric light 
wiring. Intended for the electrician, helper and apprentice. 
Contains just the information needed for successful wiring 
of a building. Fully illustrated with diagrams and plans. 
It solves all wiring problems and contains nothing that con- 
flicts with the rulings of the National Board of Fire Under- 
writers. It gives just the information essential to the suc- 
cessful wiring of a building. 125 pages, fully illustrated, 
flexible cloth. Price, 50 cents 

MANAGEMENT OP DYNAMOS. By Lummis -Pat- 
erson. A handbook of theory and practice. This work is 
arranged in three parts. The first part covers the elementary 
theory of the dynamo. The second part, the construction 
and action of the different classes of dynamos in common 
use are described; while the third part relates to such 
matters as affect the practical management and working of 
dynamos and motors. Fourth edition. 292 pages, 117 illus- 
trations. Price, $1.50 

ELECTRICITY IN FACTORIES AND WORK- 
SHOPS. Its cost and convenience. A handy book for 
power producers and power users. By Arthur P. Haslam. 
5^x8. Cloth, 312 pages, 70 illustrations. Price, $2.50 

HOW TO BECOME A SUCCESSFUL ELECTRI- 
CIAN. By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. An interesting book 
from cover to cover. Telling in simplest language the surest 
and easiest way to become a successful electrician. The 
studies to be followed, methods of work, field of operation 
and the requirements of the successful electrician are pointed 
out and fully explained. 202 pages. Illustrated. Eighteenth 
revised edition. Cloth. Price, $1.00 

STANDARD ELECTRICAL DICTIONARY. By 

Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. A practical handbook of refer- 
ence containing definitions of about 5,000 distinct words, 
terms and phrases. The definitions are terse and concise and 
include every term used in electrical science. Twelfth edi- 
tion. 682 pages, 393 illustrations. Price, $3.00 

SWITCHBOARDS. By William Baxter, Jr. This 
book appeals to every engineer and electrician who wants to 
know the practical side of things. All sorts and conditions 
of dynamos, connections and circuits are shown by diagram 
and illustrate just how the switchboard should be connected. 
Includes direct and alternating current boards, also those 
for arc lighting, incandescent and power circuits. Special 
treatment on high voltage boards for power transmission. 
Second edition. 190 pages. Illustrated. Price, $1.50 

TELEPHONE CONSTRUCTION, INSTALLA- 
TION, WIRING, OPERATION AND MAINTE- 
NANCE. By W. H. Radcliffe and H. C. Cushing. This 
book gives the principles of construction and operation of 
both the Bell and Independent instruments; approved meth- 
ods of installing and wiring them; the means of protecting 
them from lighting and abnormal currents; their connection 
together for operation as series or bridging stations; and 
rules for their inspection and maintenance. Line wiring and 
the wiring and operation of special telephone systems are 
also treated. 224 pages, 132 illustrations. Second revised 
edition. Price, $1.00 

12 



WIRELESS TELEGRAPHY AND TELEPIIONV 
SIMPLY EXPLAINED. By Alfred P. Morgan. This 
is undoubtedly one of the most complete and comprehen- 
sible treatises on the subject ever published, and a close 
study of its pages will enable one to master all the details 
of the wireless transmission of messages. The author has 
filled a long-felt want and has succeeded in furnishing a lucid, 
comprehensible explanation in simple language of the theory 
and practice of wireless telegraphy and telephony. 154 pages, 
156 engravings. Price, $1.00 

WIRING A HOUSE. I? y Herbert Pratt. Shows a 
house already built; tells just how to start about wiring it; 
where to begin; what wire to use; how to run it accord- 
ing to insurance rules; in fact, just the information you 
need. Directions apply equally to a shop. Fourth edition. 

Price, lio cents 

ENAMELING 



HENLEY'S TWENTIETH • CENTURY RE- 
CEIPT BOOK. Edited by Gardner D. Hiscox. A work 
of 10,000 practical receipts, including enameling receipts for 
hollow ware, for metals, for signs, for china and porcelain, 
for wood, etc. Thorough and practical. 1914 edition. 

Price. $3.00 

FACTORY MANAGEMENT, ETC 

MODERN MACHINE SHOP CONSTRUCTION, 
EQUIPMENT AND MANAGEMENT. By O. E. 

Perrigo, M.E. A work designed for the practical and every- 
day use of the architect who designs, the manufacturers who 
build, the engineers who plan and equip, the superinten- 
dents who organize and direct, and for the information of 
every stockholder, director, officer, accountant, clerk, super- 
intendent, foreman and workman of the modern machine 
shop and manufacturing plant of Industrial America. 

Price, $5.00 

FUEL 



( OMBUSTION OF COAL AND THE PREVEN- 
TION OF SMOKE. By W«. M. Barr. This book has 
been prepared with special reference to the generation of 
heat by the combustion of the common fuels found in the 
United States, and deals particularly with the conditions 
necessary to the economic and smokeless combustion of 
bituminous coals in stationary and locomotive steam boilers. 
.The presentation of this important subject is systematic and 
progressive. The arrangement of the book is in a series of 
practical questions to which are appended accurate answers, 
which describe in language, free from technicalities, the sev- 
eral processes involved in the furnace combustion of Amer- 
ican fuels; it clearly states the essential requisites for per- 
fect combustion, and points out the best methods for fur- 
nace construction for obtaining the greatest quantity of heat 
from any given quality of coal. Nearly 350 pages, fully 
illustrated. Fifth edition. Price, $1.00 

SMOKE PREVENTION AND FUEL ECONOMY. 
By Booth and Kershaw. As the title indicates, this book 
of 197 pages and 75 illustrations deals with the problem of 
complete combustion, which it treats from the chemical and 
mechanical standpoints, besides pointing out the economical 
and humanitarian aspects of the question. Price, $2.50 

13 



GAS ENGINES AND GAS 



GAS ENGINE CONSTRUCTION, Or How to Build 
a Half-Horse-power Gas Engine. By Parsell and Weed. 
A practical treatise describing the theory and principles of 
the action of gas engines of various types, and the design 
and construction of a half-horse-power gas engine, with illus- 
trations of the work in actual progress, together with dimen- 
sioned working drawings giving clearly the sizes of the vari- 
ous details. 300 pages. Third edition. Cloth. Price, $2.50 

CHEMISTRY OF GAS MANUFACTURE. By H. 

M. Royles. This book covers points likely to arise in the 
ordinary course of the duties of the engineer or manager of 
a gas works not large enough to necessitate the employment 
of a separate chemical staff. It treats of the testing of the 
raw materials employed in the manufacture of illuminating 
coal gas and of the gas produced. The preparation of 
standard solutions is given as well as the chemical and physi- 
cal examination of gas coal. 5^4x8^4. Cloth, 328 pages, 82 
illustrations, 1 colored plate. Price, $4.50 

THE GASOLINE ENGINE ON THE FARM: 
ITS OPERATION, REPAIR AND USES. By Xeno 
W. Putnam. A useful and practical treatise on the modern 
gasoline and kerosene engine, its construction, management, 
repair and the many uses to which it can be applied in 
present-day farm life. It considers all the various household, 
shop and field uses of this up-to-date motor and includes 
chapters on engine installation, power transmission and the 
best arrangement of the power plant in reference to the 
work. 5^x7^ Cloth. 527 pages, 179 illustrations. 

Price, $2.0O 

GASOLINE ENGINES: THEIR OPERATION, 
USE AND CARE. By A. Hyatt Verrill. A comprehen- 
sive, simple and practical work, treating of gasoline engines 
for stationary, marine or vehicle use; their construction, de- 
sign, management, care, operation, repair, installation and 
troubles. A complete glossary of technical terms and an alpha- 
betically arranged table of troubles and symptoms form a 
most valuable and unique feature of the book. 5%x.7 z A. 
Cloth. 275 pages, 152 illustrations. Price, $1.50 

GAS, GASOLINE AND OIL ENGINES. By Gard- 
ner D. Hiscox. Revised by Victor W. Page. Just issued 
new, revised and enlarged edition. Every user of a gas 

engine needs this book. Simple, instructive and right up- 
to-date. The only complete work on the subject. Tells all 
about internal combustion engineering, treating exhaustively 
on the design, construction and practical application of all 
forms of g^as, gasoline, kerosene and crude petroleum-oil en- 
gines. Describes minutely all auxiliary systems, such as 
lubrication, carburetion and ignition. Considers the theory 
and management of all forms of explosive motors for sta 
tionary and marine work, automobiles, aeroplanes and motor 
cycles. Includes also Producer Gas and Its Production 
Invaluable instructions for all students, gas-engine owners 
gas-engineers, patent experts, designers, mechanics, drafts 
men and all having to do with the modern power. Illustrated 
by over 400 engravings, many specially made from engineer 
ing drawings, all in correct proportion. 650 pages, 435 en- 
gravings. Price, net. $2.50 
14 



MODERN GAS ENGINES AND PRODUCER 
GAS PLANTS. By R. E. Mathot, M.E. A practical 
treatise of 320 pages, fully illustrated by 175 detailed illus- 
trations, setting forth the principles of gas engines and pro- 
ducer design, the selection and installation of an engine, 
conditions of perfect operation, producer-gas engines and 
their possibilities, the care of gas engines and producer-gas 
plants, with a chapter on volatile hydrocarbon and oil en- 
gines. This book has been endorsed by Dugal Clerk as a 
most useful work for all interested in gas engine installation 
and producer gas. Price, $2.50 

HOW TO RUN AND INSTALL, GASOLINE 
ENGINES. By C. Von Culin. New revised and enlarged 
edition just issued. The object of this little book is to fur- 
nish a pocket instructor for the beginner, the busy man who 
uses an engine for pleasure or profit, but who does not 
have the time or inclination for a technical book, but sim- 
ply to thoroughly understand how to properly operate, install 
and care for his own engine. The index refers to each 
trouble, remedy and subject alphabetically. Being a quick 
reference to find the cause, remedy and prevention for 
troubles, and to become an expert with his own engine. 
Pocket size. Paper binding. Price, 25 cents 

MODERN GAS TRACTOR, ITS CONSTRUC- 
TION, UTILITY, OPERATION AND REPAIR. 

By Victor W. Page. Treats exhaustively on the design and 
construction of farm tractors and tractor power-plants, and 
gives complete instructions on their care, operation and re- 
pair. All types and sizes of gasoline, kerosene and oil 
tractory are described, and every phase of traction engineer- 
ing practice fully covered. Invaluable to all desiring re- 
liable information on gas motor propelled traction engines 
and their use. 5J4 x7^, Cloth. 475 pages, 204 illustrations, 
3 folding plates. Price, $2.00 



GEARING AND CAMS 



REVEL GEAR TABLES. By D. Ac. Engstrom. 
Xo one who has to do with bevel gears in any way should 
be without this book. The designer and draftsman will find 
it a great convenience, while to the machinist who turns up 
the blanks or cuts the teeth, it is invaluable, as all needed 
dimensions are given and no fancy figuring need be done. 
Third edition. Cloth. Price, $1.00 

CHANGE GEAR DEVICES. By Oscar E. Perrigo. 
A book for every designer, draftsman and mechanic who is 
interested in feed changes for any kind of machines. This 
shows what has been done and how. Gives plans, patents 
and all information that you need. Saves hunting through 
patent records and reinventing old ideas. A standard work 
of reference. Cloth. Price, $1.00 

DRAFTING OP CAMS. By Louis Rouillion. The 
laying out of cams is a serious problem unless you know how 
to go at i$ right. This puts you on the right road for prac- 
tically any kind of cam vou are likely to run up against. 
Third edition. Price, 25 cents 

15 



HYDRAULICS 



HYDRAULIC ENGINEERING. By Gardner D. 
Hiscox. A treatise on the properties, power, and resources 
of water for all purposes. Including the measurement of 
streams; the flow of water in pipes or conduits; the horse- 
power of falling water; turbine and impact water-wheels; 
wave-motors, centrifugal, reciprocating and air-lift pumps. 
With 300 figures and diagrams and 36 practical tables. 320 
pages. Price, $4.O0 

ICE AND REFRIGERATION 



POCKETBOOK OF REFRIGERATION AND 

ICE MAKING. By A. J. Wallis-Taylor. This is one of 
the latest and most comprehensive reference books published 
on the subject of refrigeration and cold storage. It explains 
the properties and refrigerating effect of the different fluids 
in use, the management of refrigerating machinery and the 
construction and insulation of cold rooms with their required 
pipe surface for different degrees of cold; freezing mixtures 
and non-freezing brines, temperatures of cold rooms for all 
kinds of provisions, cold storage charges for all classes of 
goods, ice making and storage of ice, data and memoranda 
for constant reference by refrigerating engineers, with nearly 
one hundred tables containing valuable references to every 
fact and condition required in the installment and operation 
of a refrigerating plant. New edition just published. 

Price, $1.50 

INVENTIONS—PATENTS 



INVENTOR'S MANUAL, HOW TO MAKE A. 
PATENT PAY. This is a book designed as a guide to 
inventors in perfecting their inventions, taking out their 
patents, and disposing of them. It is not in any sense a 
Patent Solicitor's circular nor a Patent Broker's advertise- 
ment. No advertisements of any description appear in the 
work. It is a book containing a quarter of a century's ex- 
perience of a successful inventor, together with notes based 
upon the experience of many other inventors. Revised edi- 
tion. 120 pages. Cloth. Price, $1.00 

KNOTS 



KNOTS, SPLICES AND ROPE WORK. By A. 

Hyatt Verrill. This is a practical book giving complete 
and simple directions for making all the most useful and orna- 
mental knots in common use, with chapters on Splicing, 
Pointing, Seizing, Serving, etc. This book is fully illus- 
trated with one hundred and fifty original engravings, which 
shows how each knot, tie or splice is formed, and its appear- 
ance when finished. The book will be found of the greatest 
value to campers, yachtsmen, travelers or Boy Scouts, in 
fact, to anyone having occasion to use or handle rope or 
knots for any purpose. The book is thoroughly reliable and 
practical, and is not only a guide but a teacher. It is the 
standard work on the subject. 118 pages, 150 original en- 
gravings. Price, 60 cents 



LATHE WORK 



TURNING AND BORING TAPERS. By Fred H. 
Colvin. There are two ways to turn tapers; the right way 
and one other. This treatise has to do with the right way; 
it tells you how to start the work properly, how to set the 
lathe, what tools to use and how to use them, and forty and 
one other little things that you should follow. Fourth edi- 
tion. Price, 25 cents 

LATHE DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION, AND 
OPERATION, WITH PRACTICAL, EXAMPLES 
OF LATHE WORK. By Oscar E. Perrigo. A New revised 
edition, and the only complete American work on the subject, 
written by a man who knows not only how work ought to be 
done, but who also knows how to do it, and how to convey 
this knowledge to others. It is strictly up-to-date in its de- 
scriptions and illustrations. Lathe history and the relations 
of the lathe to manufacturing are given; also a description of 
the various devices for feeds and thread cutting mechanisms 
from early efforts in this direction to the present time. Lathe 
iesign is thoroughly discussed, including back gearing, driving 
tones, thread-cutting gears, and all the essential element of the 
modern lathe. The classification of lathes is taken up, giving 
the essential differences of the several types of lathes including, 
• as is usually understood, engine lathes, bench lathes, speed 
lathes, forge lathes, gap lathes, pulley lathes, forming lathes, 
multiple-spindle lathes, rapid-reduction lathes, precision lathes, 
turret lathes, special lathes, electrically-driven lathes, etc. 
In addition to the complete exposition on construction and 
design, much practical matter on lathe installation, care and 
operation has been incorporated in the enlarged 1915 edi- 
tion. All kinds of lathe attachments for drilling, milling, 
etc., are described and complete instructions are given to 
enable the novice machinist to grasp the art of lathe oper- 
ation as well as the principles involved in design. A number 
of difficult machining operations are described at length and 
illustrated. The new edition has nearly 500 pages and 350 
illustrations. Priee, $2.50 

PRACTICAL METAL TURNING. By Joseph G. 
Horner. A work of 404 pages, fully illustrated, covering in 
a comprehensive manner the modern practice of machining 
metal parts in the lathe, including the regular engine lathe, 
its essential design, its uses, its tools, its attachments, and 
the manner of holding the work and performing the opera- 
tions. The modernized engine lathe, its methods, tools and 
great range of accurate work. The turret lathe, its tools, 
accessories and methods of performing its functions. Chap- 
ters on special work, grinding, tool holders, speeds, feeds, 
modern tool steels, etc., etc. Second edition. Price, $3.50 



LIQUID AIR 

LIQUID AIR AND THE LIQUEFACTION OF 
GASES. By T. O'Conor Sloane. Theory, history, biog- 
raphy, practical applications, manufacture. Second edition. 
365 pages. Illustrated. Price, $2.00 

17 



LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEERING 

AIR-BRAKE CATECHISM. By Robert H. Black- 
all. This book is a standard text book. It is the only 
p.» accical and complete work published. Treats on the equip- 
ment manufactured by the Westinghouse Air Brake Com- 
pany, including the E-T Locomotive Brake Equipment, the 
K (Quick-Service) Triple Valve for freight service; the L 
High Speed Triple Valve; the P-C Passenger Brake Equip- 
ment, and the Cross Compound Pump. The operation of all 
parts of the apparatus is explained in detail and a practical 
way of locating their peculiarities and remedying their de- 
fects is given. Endorsed and used by air-brake instructors 
and examiners on nearly every railroad in the United States. 
Twenty-sixth edition. 411 pages, fully illustrated with fold- 
ing plates and diagrams. New edition. Price, $2.00 

AMERICAN COMPOUND LOCOMOTIVES. By 

Fred H. Colvin. The most complete book on compounds 
published. Shows all types, including the balanced compound. 
Makes everything clear by many illustrations, and shows 
valve setting, breakdowns and repairs. 142 pages. Cloth. 

Price, $1.00 

APPLICATION OP HIGHLY SUPERHEATED 
STEAM TO LOCOMOTIVES. By Robert Garbe. A 
practical book which cannot be recommended too highly to 
those motive-power men who are anxious to maintain the 
highest efficiency in their locomotives. Contains special chap- 
ters on Generation of Highly Superheated Steam; Super- 
heated Steam and the Two-Cylinder Simple Engine; Com- 
pounding and Superheating; Designs of Locomotive Super- 
heaters; Constructive Details of Locomotives Using Highly 
Superheated Steam. Experimental and Working Results. 
Illustrated with folding plates and tables. Cloth. 

Price, $2.50 

COMBUSTION OF COAL AND THE PREVEN- 
TION OP SMOKE. By Wm, M. Barr. To be a success a 
fireman must be "Light on Coal." He must keep his fire 
in good condition, and prevent, as far as possible, the smoke 
nuisance. To do this, he should know how coal burns, how 
smoke is formed and the proper burning of fuel to obtain 
the best results. He can learn this, and more too, from 
Barr's "Combination of Coal." It is an absolute authority 
on all questions relating to the firing of a locomotive. Fifth 
edition. Nearly 350 pages, fully illustrated. Price, $1.00 

DIARY OP A ROUND-HOUSE FOREMAN. By 

T. S. Reilly. This is the greatest book of railroad experi- 
ences ever published. Containing a fund of information and 
suggestions along the line of handling men, organizing, etc., 
that one cannot afford to miss. 176 pages. Price, |l.OO 

LINK MOTIONS, VALVES AND VALVE SET- 
TING. By Fred H. Colvin, Associate Editor of "American 
Machinist." A handy book that clears up the mysteries of 
valve setting. Shows the different valve gears in use, how 
they work, and why. Piston and slide valves of different 
types are illustrated and explained. A book that every rail- 
road man in the motive-power department ought to have. 
Fully illustrated. New revised and enlarged edition just 
published. Price, 50 cent* 

is 



TRAIN RULE EXAMINATIONS MADE EASY. 

By G. E. Collingwood. This is the only practical work on 
train rules in print. Every detail is covered, and puzzling 
points are explained in simple, comprehensive language, mak- 
ing it a_ practical treatise for the train dispatcher, engine- 
man, trainman and all others who have to do with the move- 
ments of trains. Contains complete and reliable information 
of the Standard Code of Train Rules for single track. Shows 
signals in colors, as used on the different roads. Explains 
fully the practical application of train orders, giving a clear 
and definite understanding of all orders which may be used. 
256 pages. Fully illustrated with train signals in co'ors. 

Price, $1.25 

LOCOMOTIVE BOILER CONSTRUCTION. By 

Frank A. Kleinhans. The only book showing how locomo- 
tive boilers are built in modern, shops. Shows all types of 
boilers used; gives details of construction; practical facts, 
such as life of riveting punches and dies, work done per 
day, allowance • for bending and flanging sheets and other 
data that means dollars to any railroad man. Second edition. 
451 pages, 334 illustrations. Six folding plates. Cloth. 

Price, $ 3.00 

LOCOMOTIVE BREAKDOWNS AND THEIR 
REMEDIES. By Geo. L. Fowler. Revised by Wm. W. 
Wood, Air-Brake Instructor. Just issued. Revised pocket 
edition. It is out of the queston to try and tell you about 
every subject that is covered in this pocket edition of Loco- 
motive Breakdowns. Just imagine all the common trouble? 
that 'an engineer may expect to happen some time, and then 
add all of the unexpected ones, troubles that could occur, 
but that you had never thought about, and you will find 
that they are all treated with the very best methods of re- 
pair. Walschaert Locomotive Valve Gear Troubles, Electr : c 
Headlight Troubles, as well as Questions and Answers on the 
Air Brake are all included. Eighth edition. 294 pages. 
Fully illustrated. Price, $1.00 

LOCOMOTIVE CATECHISM. By Robert Grim- 
shaw. Twenty-eighth revised and enlarged edition. This 
may well be called an encyclopedia of the locomotive. Con- 
tains over 4,000 examination questions with their answers, 
including among them those asked at the first, second and 
third years' examinations. 825 pages, 437 illustrations and 
3 folding plates. Price, $2.50 

WESTINGHOUSE ET AIR-BRAKE INSTRUC- 
TION POCKET BOOK CATECHISM. By Wm. W. 

Wood, Air-Brake Instructor. A practical work containing 
examination questions and answers on the E. T. Equipment. 
Covering what the E. T. Brake is. How' it should be oper- 
ated. What to do when defective. Not a question can be 
asked of the engineman up for promotion on either the No. 
5 or the No. 6 E T equipment that is not asked and answered 
in the book. If you want to thoroughly understand the 
E T equipment get a copy of this book. It covers every de- 
tail. Makes air-brake troubles and examinations easy. Fully 
illustrated with colored plates, showing various pressures. 
Cloth. ' i»rf««, fl.BO 

19 



PRACTICAL, INSTRUCTOR AND REFERENCE 
BOOK FOR LOCOMOTIVE FIREMEN AND EN- 
GINEERS. By Chas. F. Lockhart. An entirely new 
book on the locomotive. It appeals to every railroad man, 
as it tells him how things are done and the right way to do 
them. Written by a man who has had years of practical 
experience in locomotive shops and on the road firing and 
running. The information given in this book cannot be 
found in any other similar treatise. Eight hundred and 
fifty-one questions with their answers are included, which 
will prove specially helpful to those preparing for exam- 
ination. 368 pages, 88 illustrations. Cloth. Price, $1.50 

PREVENTION OF RAILROAD ACCIDENTS, 
OR SAFETY IN RAILROADING. By George Brad 
shaw. This book is a heart-to-heart talk with railroad em- 
ployees, dealing with facts, not theories, and showing the 
men in the ranks, from every-day experience, how accidents 
occur and how they may be avoided. The book is illustrated 
with seventy original photographs and drawings showing the 
safe and unsafe methods of work. No visionary schemes, no 
ideal pictures. Just plain facts and practical suggestions are 
given. Every railroad employee who reads the book is a 
better and safer man to have in railroad service. It gives 
just the information which will be the means of preventing 
many injuries and deaths. All railroad employees should 
procure a copy; read it, and do their part in preventing 
accidents. 169 pages. Pocket size. Fully illustrated. 

Price, 50 cents 

WALSCHAERT LOCOMOTIVE VALVE GEAR. 

By Wm. W. Wood. If you would thoroughly understand the 
Walschaert Valve Gear, you should possess a copy of this 
book. The author divides the subject into four divisions, as 
follows: I. Analysis of the gear. II. Designing and erecting 
of the gear. III. Advantages of the gear. IV. Questions 
and answers relating to the Walschaert Valve Gear. This 
book is specially valuable to those preparing for promotion. 
Third edition. 245 pages. Fully illustrated. Cloth. 

Price, $1.50 



MACHINE SHOP PRACTICE 



MACHINE -SHOP ARITHMETIC. By Colvif- 
Cheney. Most popular book for shop men. Shows how all 
shop problems are worked out and "why." Includes change 
gears for cutting any threads; drills, taps, shink and force 
fits; metric system of measurements and threads. Used by 
all classes of mechanics and for instruction in Y. M. C. A. 
and other schools. Sixth edition. 131 pages. 

Price, 50 cents 

TOOLS FOR MACHINISTS AND WOOD 
WORKERS, INCLUDING INSTRUMENTS OF 
MEASUREMENT. By Joseph G. Horner. The prin- 
ciples upon which cutting tools for wood, metal, and other 
substances are made are identical, whether used by the ma- 
chinist, the carpenter, or by any other skilled mechanic in 
their daily -work, and the object of this book is to give a 
correct and practical description of these tools as they are 
commonly designed, constructed, and uced. 340 pages, fully 
illustrated. Price, $3.50 

20 



AMERICAN TOOL MAKING AM) INTER- 
CHANGEABLE MANUFACTURING. By J. V. 

Woodworth. In its 500-odd pages the one subject' only, 
Tool Making, and whatever relates thereto, is dealt with. 
The work stands without a rival. It is a complete practical 
treatise on the art of American Tool Making and system of 
interchangeable manufacturing as carried on to-day in the 
United States. In it are described and illustrated all of + he 
different types and classes of small tools, fixtures, dc- ices 
and special appliances which are in general use in all 
machine-manufacturing and metal-working establishments 
where economy, capacity and interchangeability in the pro- 
duction of machined metal parts are imperative. The science 
of jig making is exhaustively discussed, and particular atten- 
tion is paid to drill jigs, boring, profiling and milling fixtures 
and other devices in which the parts to be machined are 
located and fastened within the contrivances. All of the 
tools, fixtures and devices illustrated and described have 
been or are used for the actual production of work, such 
as parts of drill presses, lathes, patented machinery, type- 
writers, electrical apparatus, mechanical appliances, brass 
goods, composition parts, mould products, sheet metal arti- 
cles, drop forgings, jewelry, watches, medals, coins, etc. 
Second edition. 531 pages. Price, $ 4.00 

HENLEY'S ENCYCLOPEDIA OP PRACTICAL 
ENGINEERING AND ALLIED TRADES. Edited 
by Joseph G. Horner, A.M.I.Mech.E. This book covers the 
entire practice of Civil and Mechanical Engineering. The 
best known experts in all branches of engineering have con- 
tributed to these volumes. The Cyclopedia is admirably well 
adapted to the needs of the beginner and the self-taught 
practical man, as well as the mechanical engineer, designer, 
draftsman, shop superintendent, foreman and machinist. 

It is a modern treatise in five volumes. Handsomely 
bound in half morocco, each volume containing nearly 500 
pages, with thousands of illustrations, including diagram- 
matic and sectional drawings with full explanatory details. 
Price, for the complete set of five volumes, $25. OO 

MODERN MACHINE SHOP CONSTRUCTION, 
EQUIPMENT AND MANAGEMENT. By Oscar E. 
Perrigo. The only work published that describes the Modern 
Machine Shop or Manufacturing Plant from the time the 
grass is growing on the site intended for it until the finished 
product is shipped. Just the book needed by those contem- 
plating the erection of modern shop buildings, the rebuilding 
and reorganization of old ones, or the introduction of Modern 
Shop Methods, Time and Cost Systems. It is a book written 
and illustrated by a practical shop man for practical shop men 
who are too busy to read theories and want facts. It is the 
most complete all-around book of its kind ever published. 
400 large quarto pages, 225 original and specially-made illus- 
trations. Price, $5.00 

"SHOP KINKS. w By Robert Grimshaw. This shows 
special methods of doing work of various kinds, and releas- 
ing cost of production. Has hints and kinks from some of 
the largest shops in this country and Europe. You are almost 
sure to find some that apply to your work, and in such _ a 
way as to save time and trouble. 400 pages. Fifth edi- 
tion. Cloth. Price, $2.50 
21 



THE WHOLE FIELD OF MECHANICAL MOVE- 
MENTS COVERED BY MR. HISCOX'S 
TWO BOOKS 

We publish two books by Gardner D. Hiscox that will 
keep you from "inventing" things that have been done be- 
fore, and suggest ways of doing things that you have not 
thought of before. Many a man spends time and money, 
pondering over some mechanical problem, only to learn, after 
he has solved the problem, that the same thing has been 
accomplished and put in practice by others long before. Time 
and money spent in an effort to accomplish what has al- 
ready been accomplished are time and money lost. The 
whole field of mechanics, every known mechanical movement, 
and practically every device is covered by these two books. 
If the thing you want has been invented, it is illustrated in 
them. If it hasn'tf been invented, then you'll find in them 
the nearest things to what you want, some movement or 
device that will apply in your case, perhaps; or which will 
give you a key from which to work. No book or set of 
books ever published is of more real value to the inventor, 
draftsman or practical mechanic than the two volumes de- 
scribed below. 

MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS, POWERS AND 
DEVICES. By Gardner D. Hiscox. This is a collection 
of 1,890 engravings of different mechanical motions and appli- 
ances, accompanied by appropriate text, making it a book of 
great value to the inventor, the draftsman, and to all read- 
ers with mechanical tastes. The book is divided into eighteen 
sections or chapters, in which the subject-matter is classified 
under the following heads: Mechanical Powers; Transmis- 
sion of Power; Measurement of Power; Steam Power; Air 
Power Appliances; Electric Power and Construction; Navi- 
gation and Roads; Gearing; Motion and Devices; Control- 
ling Motion; r.^rological; Mining; Mill and Factory Appli- 
ances; Construction and Devices; Drafting Devices; Miscel- 
laneous Devices, etc. Fourteenth edition. 400 octavo pages. 

Price, $2. ftO 

MECHANICAL APPLIANCES, MECHANICAL 
MOVEMENTS AND NOVELTIES OP CON- 
STRUCTION. By Gardner D. Hiscox. This is a sup- 
plementary volume to the one upon mechanical movements. 
Unlike the first volume, which is more elementary in char- 
acter, this volume contains illustrations and descriptions of 
many combinations of motions and of mechanical devices 
and appliances found in different lines of machinery, each 
device being shown by a line drawing with a description 
showing its working parts and the method of operation. 
From the multitude of devices described and illustrated 
might be mentioned, in passing, such items as conveyors and 
elevators, Prony brakes, thermometers, various types of boil- 
ers, solar engines, oil-fuel burners, condensers, evaporators, 
Corliss and other valve gears, governors, gas engines, water 
motors of various descriptions, air ships, motors and dynamos, 
automobile and motor bicycles, railway lock signals, car coup- 
lers, link and gear motions, ball bearings, breech block 
mechanism for heavy guns, and a large accumulation of 
others of equal importance. 1,000 specially made engravings. 
396 octavo pages. Third revised edition. Price, $2.50 

22 



MACHINE SHOP TOOLS AND SHOP PRAC- 
TICE. ,. By W. H. Vandervoort. A work of 555 pages and 
673 illustrations, describing in every detail the construction, 
operation, and manipulation of both hand and machine tools. 
Includes chapters on filing, fitting, and scraping surfaces; on 
drills, reamers, taps, and dies; the lathe and its tools; planers, 
shapers, and their tools; milling machines and cutters; gear 
cutters and gear cutting; drilling machines and drill work; 
grinding machines and their work; hardening and tempering; 
gearing, belting, and transmission machinery; useful data and 
tables. Sixth edition. Cloth. Price, $3.00 

MODERN MILLING MACHINES: THEIR DE- 
SIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND OPERATION. By 

Joseph G. Horner. This book describes and illustrates the 
Milling Machine and its work in such a plain, clear, and 
forceful manner, and illustrates the subject so clearly and 
completely, that the up-to-date machinist, student, or me- 
chanical engineer cannot afford to do without the valuable 
information which it contains. It describes not only the 
early machines of this class, but notes their gradual develop- 
ment into the splendid machines of the present day, giving 
the design and construction of the various types, forms, and 
special features produced by prominent manufacturers, Ameri- 
can and foreign. 304 pages, 300 illustrations. Cloth 

Price, $4.00 

THE MODERN MACHINIST. By John T. Usher. 
This book might be called a compendium of shop methods, 
showing a variety of special tools and appliances which will 
give new ideas to many mechanics from the superintendent 
down to the man at the bench. It will be found a valuable 
addition to any machinist's library and should be consulted 
whenever a new or difficult job is to be done, whether it is 
boring, milling, turning, or planing, as they are all treated 
in a practical manner. Fifth edition. 320 pages, 250 illus- 
trations. Cloth. Price, $2.50 

THREADS AND THREAD CUTTING. By Colvin 
and Stabel. This clears up many of the mysteries of thread- 
cutting, such as double and triple threads, internal threads, 
catching threads, use of hobs, etc. Contains a lot of useful 
hints and several tables. Third edition. Price, 35 cents 



MARINE ENGINEERING 



THE NAVAL ARCHITECT'S AND SHIP- 
BUILDER'S POCKET-BOOK of Formulae, Rules, and 
Tables and Marine Engineer's and Surveyor's Handy Book 
of Reference. By Clement Mackrow and Lloyd Woollard. 
The eleventh revised and enlarged edition of this most com- 
prehensive work has just been issued. It is absolutely in- 
dispensable to all engaged in the Shipbuilding Industry, as it 
condenses into a compact form all data and formulae that 
are ordinarily required. The book is completely up to date, 
including among other subjects a section on Aeronautics. 
750 pages, limp leather binding. Price, $5.00 net 

23 



MARINE ENGINES AND BOILERS, THEIR 
DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION. By Dr. G. Rauer, 
Leslie S. Robertson and S. Rryan Don kin. In the words 
of Dr. Rauer, the present 'work owes its origin to an oft 
felt want of a condensed treatise embodying the theoretical 
and practical rules used in designing marine engines and 
boilers. The need of such a work has been felt by must 
engineers engaged in the construction and working of marine 
engines, not only by the younger men, but also by those of 
greater experience. The fact that the original German work 
was written by the chief engineer of the famous Vulcan 
Works, Stettin, is in itself a guarantee that this book is in 
all respects thoroughly up-to-date, and that it embodies all 
the information which is necessary for the design and con- 
struction of the highest types of marine engines and boilers. 
It may be said that the motive power which Dr. Rauer has 
placed in the fast German liners that have been turned out 
of late years from the Stettin Works represent the very best 
practice in marine engineering of the present day. The work 
is clearly written, thoroughly systematic, theoretically sound; 
while the character of the plans, drawings, tables, and sta- 
tistics is without reproach. The illustrations are careful re- 
productions from .actual working drawings, with some well- 
executed photographic views of completed engines and boilers. 
744 pages, 550 illustrations and numerous tables. Cloth. 

Price, $9.00 net 

MANUAL TRAINING 



ECONOMICS OP MANUAL, TRAINING. By 

Louis Rouillion. The only book that gives just the infor- 
mation needed by all interested in manual training, regarding 
buildings, equipment and supplies. Shows exactly what is 
needed for all grades of the work from the Kindergarten to 
the Lligh and Normal School. Gives itemized lists of every- 
thing needed and tells just what it ought to cost. Also shows 
where to buy supplies. Illustrated. Second edition! Cloth. 

Priee, $1.50 

MINING 



ORE DEPOSITS, WITH A CHAPTER ON 
HINTS TO PROSPECTORS. Ry J. P. Johnson. This 
book gives a condensed account of the ore deposits at present 
known in South Africa. It is also intended as a guide to 
the prospector. Only an elementary knowledge of geology and 
some mining experience are necessary in order to understand 
this work. With these qualifications, it will materially assist 
one in his search for metalliferous mineral occurrences and, 
so far as simple ores are concerned, should enable one to 
form some idea of the possibilities of any they may find. 
Illustrated. Cloth. Price- $2.0<> 

PRACTICAL, COAL MINING. Ry T. H. Cockin. 
An important work, containing 428 pages and 213 illustra- 
tions, complete with practical details, which will intuitively 
impart to the reader, not only a general knowledge of the 
principles of coal mining, but also considerable insight into 
allied subjects. The treatise is positively up to date in every 
instance, and should be in the hands of every colliery engi- 
neer, geologist, mine operator, superintendent, foreman, and 
all others who are interested in or connected with the indus- 
try. Third edition. Cloth. Price, $2.50 

24 



r fr H ^ SICS * >D CHEMISTRY OF MINING B, 

r H. Byrom. A practical work for the use of all 'preparing 
for examinations in mining or qualifying for colliery man 
agers'. certificates The aim of the author °n this exceUeni 
book is to place clearly before the reader useful and author" 

Ml t at T, WhKh , WlU r , end ! r - him finable assistance in hta 
studies. _ The only work of its kind published. The infor- 
mation incorporated in it will prove of the greatest practical 
utility to students, m.ning engineers, colliery managers and 
all others who . are specially interested in the present-day 
treatment of mining problems. 160 pages, illustrated L * 

Price, .f2.no 

PATTERN MAKING 

PRACTICAL PATTERN MAKING. By F V 

Barrows. This book, now in its second edition is a 'com 
prehensive and entirely practical treatise on the' sub feet of 
pattern making illustrating pattern work in both wood and 
metal, and with definite instructions on the use of plaster 
of pans ,n the trade. It giyes specific and detailed descr p- 
t.ons of the materials used by pattern makers and describes 
U.e tools; both those for the bench and the more in ere ng 
machine tools; having complete chapters on the lathe t"if 
circular saw and the band saw. It gives many examples of 

m, ch rn r1,Tn k ' Ti Ch °" e fU ' 7 illustrate d and explained with 
much detail. These examples, in their great variety offer 
much that will be found of interest to 111 pattern makers 
and especially to the younger ones, who are seeking informa- 
tion on the more advanced branches of their trade Con- 
taining nearly 350 pages and 170 illustrations. Second edi- 
tion, revised and enlarged. Price $2 OO 



PERFUMERY 



HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOIC ftp 
RECEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES Ed!S 

iZ if' K,^ IS f 0X ^ Th - e most vaIu abIe techno-chemical receipt 
book published. Contains over 10,000 practical receipts, many 
of which will prove of special value to the perfumer. $3.00 

\R P A E ™£ M A i£ N1 ?r?£ SMETICS ' THEIR PREP- 
ARATION AND MANUFACTURE. Bv G W 

Askinson, Perfumer. A comprehensive treatise, 7 in which 
ere has been nothing omitted that could be of value to 
the perfumer or manufacturer of toilet preparations Corn- 
salts 6 sac e , C er S f „ f0 ^ m . aking ' h ^ dkerchie£ Perfumes smeS- 
f L„ • , i Umiga,, ! lg pastilles; preparations for the care 
of the skin, the mouth, the hair, cosmetics, hair dyes and 
other toilet articles are given, also a detailed description of 
aromatic substances; their nature, tests of purity and whole! 
sale manufacture, including a chapter on synthetic nroducts 
with formulas for their use. A book of general as vve as 

25 




Henley's Twentieth Century 

Book of 

Recipes, Formulas 
and Processes 

Edited by GARDNER D. HISCOX, M.E 
Price $3.00 Cloth Binding $4.00 Half Morocco Binding 

Contains over 10, 000 Selected Scientific, Chemical, 

Techn olog ical an d Practical Reci pes and 

Processes, including Hundred s of 

So-Called Trade Secrets 



for Every Business 

THIS book of 8oo pages is the most complete Book of 
Recipes ever published, giving thousands of recipes 
for the manufacture of valuable articles forevery-day 
use. Hints, Helps, Practical Ideas and Secret Processes 
are revealed within its pages. It covers every branch of 
the useful arts and tells thousands of ways of making 
money and is just the book everyone should have at his 
command. 

The pages are filled with matters of intense interest and 
immeasurable practical value to the Photographer, the 
Perfumer, the Painter, the Manufacturer of Glues, Pastes, 
Cements and Mucilages, the Physician, the Druggist, the 
Electrician, the Brewer, the Engineer, the Foundryman, 
the Machinist, the Potter, the Tanner, the Confectioner, 
the Chiropodist, the Manufacturer of Chemical Novelties 
and Toilet Preparations, the Dyer, the Electroplater, 
the Enameler, the Engraver, the Provisioner, the Glass 
Worker, the Goldbeater, the Watchmaker and Jeweler, 
the Ink Manufacturer, the Optician, the Farmer, the Dairy- 
man, the Paper Maker, the Metal Worker, the Soap Maker, 
the Veterinary Surgeon, and the Technologist in general. 
A book to which you may turn with confidence that you 
will find what you are looking for. A mine of informa- 
tion up-to-date in every respect. Contains an immense 
numDer of formulas that every one ought to have that are 
not found in any other work. 



MODERN GASOLINE AUTOMOBILE. ITS DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION 
AND REPAIR. By Victor W. Page. 

The most complete, practical, and up-to-date treatise on gasoline automobiles, ex- 
plaining fully a'l principles pertaining to gasoline automobiles and their component 
parts It contains the latest and most reliable information on all phases of automo- 
bile construction, operation, maintenance and repair. Every part of the automobile, 
its equipment, accessories, tools, supplies, spare parts necessary, etc., are fully dis- 
cussed. 1917 Edition just published. S>Hxl%. Cloth, 850 pages, 600 illustrations, 
12 folding plates. Price $2.50 

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS RELATING TO MODERN AUTOMO- 
BILE CONSTRUCTION, DRIVING AND REPAIR. By Victor W. Page. 

A practical self-instructor for students, mechanics and motorists, consisting of thirty- 
seven lessons in the form of questions and answers, written with special reference to 
the requirements of the non-mechanical reader desiring easily understood explanatory 
matter relating to all branches of automobiling. A popular work at a popular price. 
5Hxt 1 4. Cloth, 650 pages, 392 illustrations, 3 folding plates. 1917 Edition just 
published. Price $1.50 

AUTOMOBILE REPAIRING MADE EASY. By Victor W. Page. 

A thoroughly practical book containing complete directions for making rspairs to 
all parts of the motor car mechanism. Written in a thorough but non-technical man- 
ner This book contains special instructions on Tire repairing and rebuilding. Latest 
timing practice. Eight- and twelve-cylinder motors, etc., etc. You will never *'get 
stuck" on a job if you own this book. 1,000 specially made engravings on 500 plates. 
1,056 pagrs (5^x8). 11 folding plates. 1917 Edition Price $3.00 

AUTOMOBILE STARTING, LIGHTING AND IGNITION SYSTEMS. 
By Victor W. Page. 

A thoroughly practical treatise on modern starting and ignition system practice. 
Includes a complete exposition of storage battery construction, care and repair. 
Explains all types of starting motors — generators — magnetos and all ignition or 
lighting system units. Nothing has been omitted, no detail has been slighted. A 
book you cannot afford to be without. Nearly 500 pages. 297 specially made engrav- 
ings 1917 Edit'on Price $1.50 

THE MODEL T FORD CAR. ITS CONSTRUCTION, OPERATION AND 
REPAIR. By Victor W. Page. 

This is a complete instruction book. All parts of the Ford Model T Car are 
described and illustrated; the construction is fully described and operating princi- 
ples made clear to everyone. Every Ford ownei needs this practical book. 1917 
Edition. 75 illustrations. 300 pages, 2 large folding plates. Price $1.00 



AUTOMOBILE WELDING WITH THE OXY-ACETYLENE FLAME. 
By M. Keith Dunham. 

Explains in a simple manner apparatus to be used, its care, and how to construct 
necessary shop equipment. Proceeds then to. the actual welding of all automobile 
parts, in a manner understandable by everyone. Gives principles never to be forgotten. 
Aluminum cast iron, steel, copper, brass, bronze and malleable iron are fnlly treated, 
as will as a clear explanation of the proper manner to burn the carbon out of the 
combustion head 167 pages, fully illustrated. 1917 Edition. Price $1.00 

The Norman W. Henley Publishing Co., 132 Nassau Street, New York 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 972 565 7 

LATEST AND BEST 

AUTOMOBILE BOOKS 

By VICTOR W. PAGE 
ALL. 1917 EDITIONS 



